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Rubinacci’s Manny model is another great example of a trouser with pleats and they offer many expressions in heavy flannels and lightweight cottons. In comparison to the Hollywood Top that’s inspired by decadent times, the Manny trouser bears from military traditions via the Ghurkas, an almost superhuman military cohort. The atypical double forward-facing pleats in this case are to aid function and movement and the design on the waist is particularly complex, but interesting and unique. Coming with a cummerbund-style waistband, the trouser is held to the body with two buckles on the hips that are fed through each side underneath the front section of the waistband. Due to its military connotations, the Ghurka trouser favours more casual garments, such as simple T-shirts, short sleeve silk shirts and single-breasted blazers.

Compared to the Hollywood Top and Manny trouser which are of a full fit, Salvatore Piccolo offer exceptional slim-fitting trousers accompanied with single reverse pleats. The deep pleat appears flatter, yet nonetheless elegant, and they feature a split waistband back with a four-button concealed front fastening. As a result, they favour more formal clothing and can be worn easily with a jacket, shirt and tie with an overcoat thrown on top for good measure. The Rake Atelier currently offers a pleated trouser in light denim, which is an interesting take on a cloth that has workwear roots.

Men can be put off by pleated trousers due to the folds throwing off balance their instinctual habit of getting dressed easily and without much thought. But as Carey puts it, “there aren’t any hard or fast rules to wearing pleated trousers,” so when in doubt keep it simple with a complementing cashmere crewneck, or a T-shirt. If there are brace buttons, use them and channel that inner Gordon Gekko and you’ll look the business. Having said that, there is one simple rule that perhaps goes without saying: wear them in their correct place, on the waist.

The Rake How To Wear Pleats PS

Simon Crompton wears reverse pleated trousers from Pommella Napoli in vintage Fox Brothers twill, a Harris Tweed coat from Liverano & Liverano and a simple cashmere rollneck by Drake’s. Photo by Jamie Ferguson.

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Trousers

Kit Blake

Grey Wool Houndstooth Aleksander Pleated Trouser

Kit Blake

Mid-Grey Wool Aleksander Pleated Trouser

Kit Blake

Charcoal Wool Aleksander Pleated Trouser