In Good Spirits: Warming the Cockles
This week, GEORGIE FENN explores the warming spirits of past, present and future.
On 1st November, hunting season “proper” kicked off with the pack I subscribe to, the Pytchley Hunt. I donned my best moleskin breeches and navy coat to enjoy a fairly tropical autumnal day in the wake of the hounds, leaping across the beautiful countryside. While I adore this community, I do sometimes feel that the most exciting thing I could do is get married and have children. “How are you?” often precedes, “Are you wearing a ring yet under those riding gloves?” That was until I was invited to go to Singapore for the Grand Prix with Glenfiddich, a new partner to the Aston Martin F1 team. Singapore, it turns out, trumps marriage and kids. Score.
William Grant & Sons own Glenfiddich; somehow, they’ve maintained a wholesome, family-owned feel, all while producing the world’s favourite single malt whisky. I put this down to the man at the helm of taste: Mr Brian Kinsman, Glenfiddich’s “Malt Master”, who happens to be the humblest man in the business. What is it that gives a brand longevity? I think it partly comes down to consistency. Glenfiddich, with Brian at the helm, will never change. Experiment? Yes, plenty. But interfere with the iconic portfolio that has cultivated their status? Never. You might think this would get boring for the man in the job, but Brian has had the pleasure of overseeing new brands, such as Monkey Shoulder. He also gets to play with the finest and rarest releases, which he (ever modestly) puts down to “never tidying up the warehouse”, providing him with a large portfolio of interesting casks to play with. We spent our final day in Singapore visiting the William Grant & Sons offices, where they have installed a “Private Client” tasting room. You know, if I had made some millions, I know where I would enjoy spending them.
The new partnership with the Aston Martin F1 team is wildly exciting for the brand, tapping into a whole new audience who crave luxury experiences, regardless of the cost. In addition to the launch, Glenfiddich have released two new expressions: the 16-year-old and the 19-year-old, quite readily available (the 16-year, for instance, is in Waitrose). For those who want to take things a step further, there is also a 65-year-old, exclusively available in Harrods. I am fortunate to have tried all three, each deserving a moment of appreciation, but of course, an age statement of 65 years is something for the tastebuds to behold. The whisky has matured into something with enormous depth, tannins and character, and the limited edition 1959 bottling represents this pivotal moment in history. It is lightning in a spirit bottle, recalling the year that Aston Martin first entered F1 and won Le Mans.
Glenfiddich Aston Martin F1 series
Talking of Harrods… I visited their wine cellar for the first time – rather embarrassingly – this week. I was thrilled to see they are taking English wine seriously, spotting a few favourites on the shelves. This included new kids on the block, Weyborne, whose estate sits in the beautiful South Downs. They produced a great wine called Oriana (well worth a try), enjoyed over the last, lovely summer in 2019. If only we knew then, we'd have stocked up on a few more bottles.
Weyborne Oriana 2019 Sparkling Wine
There is some room for improvement in the Harrods wine department, especially in regard to the size formats. Magnums of Riesling are notoriously hard to get hold of, but you’d think if anyone can do it, it would be Harrods.
What really brought me to the Hyde Park area was a tasting at the Embassy of the Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg, with Domaine Alice Hartmann. This would be the second time that wines from Luxembourg have impressed me (and indeed, frustrated me for we just don’t have that much access to them here in the UK). When it comes to Domaine Alice Hartmann, 95% of all sales are domestic, and as infuriating as this is, I can’t say I blame them. The wines are astonishingly good.
In 1927, Alice Hartmann and her husband were given the Domaine as a wedding present. Ten years later, Mr Hartmann died in a car crash, and the widowed Alice took over operation of the Domaine, branding it in her name, as it is known today. She had the ingenious idea to plant lots of Riesling, as it was her belief that this noble grape is the best for reflecting terroir. Today, the Domaine cultivates 15 hectares in Luxembourg for Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (though still sourcing grapes from long-term partners located elsewhere). A staggering 80% of the production is dedicated to Crémant de Luxembourg, a sparkling wine made in the traditional method. We tried the Hartman Brut Nature and the most popular sparkling in Luxembourg, the Hartmann Brut. The blend in these wines is 50% Riesling, 25% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir, which makes for a classic style, with an added, zingy edge. The results are fresh, elegant sparkling wines that were a joy to try.
Cremant de Luxembourg Alice Hartmann
Available at Hedonism Wines, £46.80
Alternatively, it can be enjoyed at their restaurant, Hide, with no corkage fee…
We then moved onto the Domaine’s Riesling terroirs. The slopes these vines grow on range from “heart attack” to “mild heart attack”, all incredibly steep and requiring actual athletes of their pickers to work there during harvest. They are glorious wines, my favourite expression coming from Ahn Palmberg, which reminded me of a Guerlain perfume I really want called Pêche Mirage. All peach notes but woody, too. Delicious, and frustratingly hard to get hold of!
