Henry Ward Beecher's oft used quote, "Clothes and manners do not make the man; but, when he is made, they greatly
improve his appearance," forgets one important component in the completion of the well-presented male: his haircut.
In menswear, the adage that it pays to buy quality is difficult to argue against, but when it comes to getting
"rug-ready" (Martin Amis fans will know what I'm talking about), more money often doesn't equate to better hair. A
five dollar buzz cut can be equally as effective as a $200 coiff at a celebrity hair stylist's salon. The crucial
ingredient is the ability to harmonically amalgamate the hairstyle with your own personal style. This is easy if you
subscribe to the aesthetics of a certain subculture which has, at its core, a specific hairstyle, but for the rest
of us, the safest and most assured route takes us collectively, inevitably, to these five styles. Creative Director
of his eponymous brand, Bradley Smith cuts to the chase...
Classic Crop
The classic crop is achieved by cutting ¾ of an inch around the back and sides. We recommend the scissors over comb
method for a defined shape and softer appearance - using clippers will give it a harder, more military finish. Ask
your hair stylist to keep the length on top to around 1-2 inches to create a textured style through point cutting,
removing excess weight and blending hair together creating natural movement.
How To Style
It's a relatively low-maintenance cut but there are a couple of embellishments you can make to get the most out of
it. First up, apply a pump or two of David Mallet's Australian Salt Spray
to towel-dried hair and then on a low heat blow-dry your hair, following the natural growth pattern, creating subtle
movement to your hair but keeping a natural appearance. Add texture to finish the style by applying a coin-sized
amount of Barberino's hair shaping paste to your
palms and evenly spread to hair working from back to front adding definition and shape to the hairstyle.
How To Maintain
Visit your barber or stylist every 3-4 weeks and have your back and sides regularly trimmed to uphold this classic
style. We recommend having your top thinned down and retextured every six weeks.
Side Parting
To achieve the side parting, ask your barber to start by clippering the sides on guard two or three (remember not to
go too short) and taper the neckline following your natural hairline. On top blend into the sides and layer the hair
with a scissor cut to remove weight. We recommend around 1.5 inches on top. The classic parting is a balanced cut
with a natural blend so avoid harsh fades at all costs.
How To Style
Apply two pumps of David Mallet's hair serum to hair and massage your roots. This will give your hair flexibility and
act as a natural hold throughout the day. Using a blow-dryer on a low heat, direct your hair away from your face
using a vent brush to give your hair lift. Let your hair naturally part and work with it, not against it. Rub a
two-pence amount of Pankhurst London's pomade
into your hands and gently run through your hair working from back to front. Push sides down and comb over the top
creating a sweeping effect following your natural parting.
How To Maintain
Visit your barber every four weeks for the back and sides to be neatened up and for any additional weight to be
removed from the top.
Graduation
The graduation, as sported by Alain Delon, has plenty of length on top with the back and sides graduated allowing for
the top to fall over the back of your ears. Keep at least 3 inches on top in order to style and create a textured
but natural look. The hairstyle is simply an outgrown side parting with the sides brought back and some additional
length on top.
How To Style
Style with some salt spray and work into your hair creating a textured but overall natural look whilst maintaining
hold throughout the day. Less is more with this style, so avoid blow-drying if you want to maintain a casual,
insouciant look. However, do apply a pea-sized amount of Patrick's S2 Shine to create hair
shape and definition with a gloss finish.
How To Maintain
Every four weeks, keep the back and sides and neckline in order with a simple tidy up. For the top every six to eight
weeks will suffice to remove any weight and retexture your hair.
Slick Back
Scissor cut the back and sides leaving around 1 inch or less in length then on top a textured cut leaving roughly 3
inches – simply enough to push back and style. Paul Newman’s variation is a textured version allowing room to create
volume and texture but still with a classic feel to the hairstyle. Tidy up with mini clippers around the neckline
for a polished style.
How To Style
Rub a liberal amount of Mess of Blues
pomade into the palms of your hands and run evenly through your hair, distributing the product all over. Now run
a comb through your hair and determine where it naturally parts. Follow your natural parting and slick back with a
comb for a slicker look, while for a textured style use your fingers and work from the roots up creating a more
casual appearance.
How To Maintain
Wash your hair at least twice a week to avoid excess dirt and product build up. However, daily washing can lead to
scalp irritation and chemical damage so don't overdo it. The slick back is a low maintenance hairstyle so when it
gets a little long, just visit your barber for a quick trim.
Classic Quiff
Ask your barber to taper the back and sides following the natural hairline at clipper guard three. Remember that with
plenty of length on top, you do not want to create an extreme contrast between that and the sides. For a softer cut,
you would be better served by your barber using the scissors-over-comb method. Allow for at least 2 inches in length
on top in order to style and create the quiff.
How To Style
Spray David Mallet's Volume and
Styling N2 spray to damp hair and blow-dry hair on a high heat with a vent brush, working your hair back off
your forehead to create volume and lift in the fringe. Rub in the palms of your hands a medium hold fibre and work
it into your hair from back to front, and then the fringe, working with the natural lift for a textured but classic
style.
How To Maintain
Visit your barbershop for a regular trim around the sides and neckline and to remove weight from top every four to
five weeks.
