The result was one of the most iconic watches in history and a runaway success for Cartier. In 1987, with Perrin
still at its helm, Cartier introduced the Santos Galbee (a word that literally means curved or shapely), which
slightly enlarged the dimensions of the case and softened the edges of the watch to give a highly appealing sensual
shape. This is the watch in yellow gold that Michael Douglas wore in Wall Street and which became synonymous with
wealth and style during the economic boom of that decade. Considering the fact that the movie was only released that
year, this means that the film had access to a prototype far before the launch. I had the pleasure of working for
Alexander Kitman Ho, the film’s producer, and I recall him saying, “Everything in the film was meticulously selected
by Oliver Stone. The cigars were Davidoff, but they had to be Cuban Davidoff. The suits were made by the incredible
Alan Flusser. The watch had to be a Cartier.”
The Cartier Pasha
The Pasha gets its name from the Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui — aka “Lord of the Atlas” — who, in the
context of the ’30s, was one of the richest men in the world. In 1932, he commissioned a waterproof watch from Louis
Cartier to wear while in his swimming pool, which Cartier delivered to him in 1933. Now that’s where the mystery
begins, because the whereabouts of this original watch are unknown, and even the configuration of the watch is
unclear.
Now let’s go back to the ’80s when Alain-Dominique Perrin was at the full height of his creativity. It was clear that
there was a market for waterproof luxury watches, with timepieces such as the Ebel 1911 Classic Wave rising in
popularity and the solid-gold Rolex Submariner taking a dominant stance.
Cartier took the mythology of the Pasha and asked Gérald Genta to make manifest a vision of this timepiece. And in
1985, the Pasha de Cartier was born. It was a massive 38mm watch with a thick case, stylised centre lugs with cross
member-like end pieces and a very cool screw-down cap that covered the crown and provided water resistance. This
system was actually derived from water-resistant military watches from the ’30s and, as such, was a wonderful stroke
of creativity.
The Pasha was, of course, a massive hit and was soon made in a truly heady variety of models: the Pasha Perpetual
Calendar (using a Génta movement); the Pasha Seatimer with a rotating bezel; the Pasha “Golf”; and my personal
favorite, the Pasha Grid, which features a grid-like protection over the crystal which was also gleaned from
military watches of the era. This, on the delicate brick “Figaro” bracelet in yellow gold, was a work of ravishing,
opulent decadence.
The Tank Solo
The Tank needs very little introduction. At 104 years’ old this year, I imagine that any watch enthusiast would be
unable to name a more timeless and adaptable wristwatch than the Cartier Tank. It’s important to remember that in
1917 wristwatches were an emerging accessory for gentlemen and a rectangular wristwatch was, arguably,
revolutionary. Pocket watches had been large, masculine affairs that a gentleman kept in the pocket of his waistcoat
on a chain. The adaptation of the pocket watch for wristwear created huge wrist-mounted timepieces and so the early
20th century watchmaking modus operandi was to make watches smaller and more convenient on the
wrist. Whilst a lot of watches were round, Cartier opted for a rectangle and the rest is ‘wristory’!
The Tank has been through a huge number of variations. Think of it like a jazz standard; a theme that everybody knows
and loves but executed or performed in different ways, thus appealing to a different range of audiences. These riffs
on a classic include, not exhaustively, Tanks Normale, Cintree, Chinoise, Obus, Basculante, Asymetrique and
Americaine. We have a saying in the UK, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Hold a Tank from the 1920s next
to a Tank that you bought yesterday and you will see that essentially they are the same. Sure, the movement may be
more technical now and the manufacturing of the dial might be a little more precise, but to the untrained eye they
will look the same. Like a ’59 Gibson Les Paul next to a modern version, not a lot has changed over the
decades.
In 2004 Cartier unveiled the Tank Solo, as an accessible way into Tank Ownership. Very similar to the Tank Louis
Cartier, the brancards have flat faces and the whole case is a little chunkier. It’s a super versatile watch that
looks awesome on the bracelet and equally fantastic on a leather strap. The choice is yours!
