A guide to fitting Kit Blake trousers

We offer several styles of trousers at Kit Blake and we aim to have an option for everyone.

Even though we are proudly made in Italy (Puglia to be precise) they are made on English patterns and are sized in inches. On our pleated models we add ½” over the stated size and 1” on our flat-fronted models. If you are used to buying European sized trousers, we would suggest finding your actual waist measure and converting to inches rather than translating your usual size.

The Aleks (formerly Aleksandar) is our most popular model and boasts four, inward-facing deep pleats and is cut to sit higher on the waist. Like all Kit Blake trousers, it does not require a belt, and has buckle & strap side adjusters. If you are in-between sizes, we would recommend going up a size and pulling the adjusters in a little closer. Alternatively, there is the option of wearing braces and we have thoughtfully placed buttons inside the waistband for this purpose. Please do not wear the clip-on elastic variety.

The profile of the Aleks is quite full in the thigh with a natural taper to the hem. Gentlemen with an athletic figure of slim waist and well-developed thigh and/or calf muscles appreciate this cut.

The Grant (formerly Slim Aleks) is based on the Aleks and has the same rise (how high the trouser sits on the waist) and deep pleats but a slightly more pronounced taper to a narrower hem. They are approximately 2” narrower at the hem and 1” slimmer in the thigh. Unless you have very athletic thighs and calves, you will wear the same size. This model was created for cloths that do not drape particularly well and is ideal in cottons but also available in tropical wools and flannel.

The Grant

Tapering trousers is not a difficult or particularly expensive alteration and as all our trousers are supplied unhemmed, you can always ask your tailor to narrow the hem to suit your taste when having then finished. We are often asked how our trousers should be hemmed and there are many options but we always recommend a 2” cuff.

The Duke is our single-pleated version of the Aleks. The solitary deep pleat faces outwards in what we used to call the “Italian” way and gives a sharp, clean definition to the front crease without excess bagginess. Ideal for cautious dressers or conservative business environments. They are a good introduction to comfortable trousers and are a gateway drug to the Grant and Aleks.

The Duke

The Caine is our flat-fronted model and sits lower on the waist than our pleated models (and hence why we add more to the waist) but still sits well above the hips. Some cloths, like heavier tweeds, just work better in flat-fronts and we know some of our customers prefer them. If you have a prominent seat or thighs, you are advised to go up a size although they are not skinny or particularly slim in the leg.

The Caine

The Windsor (formerly Short Aleks) are our pleated, tailored shorts. They have an 8” in-seam and are finished with 1 5/8” cuffs. They are never lined nor do they have brace buttons. Available in wools, cottons and luxurious blends.