The legendary outfitter to icons including Charlie Chaplin,
Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, Gary Cooper and Laurence
Olivier, the unique qualities of Anderson & Sheppard’s
soft-tailored bespoke offering are well documented. Less
well-known, perhaps, is the philosophy behind the house’s
ready-to-wear garments, purveyed from the A&S Haberdashery on
Clifford Street, Mayfair — and via TheRake.com
Anderson & Sheppard’s proprietor Anda Rowland explains that
the ready-to-wear range isn’t miles away from the bespoke offering,
in the sense that it was created in response to particular customer
demands. “We developed the Haberdashery collection from comments
and questions that we frequently heard from bespoke customers,”
Anda says. “They asked us,” Anda recalls, “where can I find a
Shetland sweater in London? Or where can I find a sweater that is
not navy, grey or black? Where can I find a pair of holiday
trousers that are not low-rise? Where can I buy linen trousers? And
where can I get things in cheerful colours?” Customers also
expressed frustration that they could not find the same style of
garment that they’d bought the previous year, or that sizing kept
changing and their favourite styles were constantly being
discontinued.
“Our Haberdashery shop exists to answer these questions and
respond to those comments,” Anda says. “At the core of the
collection are 11 styles of trouser that we worked on with the
bespoke shop. They include the most popular cuts from the bespoke
trouser cutters’ boards and other styles, including brace-back and
Gurkha top styles and so forth. The styles do not change, but once
the customer finds his favourites in his size, he can choose from a
wide selection of summer, winter and year-round weights so he
doesn’t have to try them on again.”
Knitwear is another highly sought-after offering, she says. “We
have over 40 different styles and new ones being added each season
as others are phased out. Following our customers’ requests,
knitwear is available in Shetland wool, lambswool, merino wool,
cashmere and many blends.” Anda notes that the shop also offers
colourful accessories. “Pocket squares, neckerchiefs, scarves and
socks are amongst the most popular.”
The Haberdashery does particularly brisk business in June and
July as clients gear up for summer. “Customers tend to buy clothes
as the weather changes or just before they leave on holiday. Our
summer selection includes many favourites including linen shirts
and shorts but new clothing and accessories are developed every
year,” Anda says. Although, at this temple to classic style, the
focus is firmly on perennial goods, certain items will inevitably
be replaced or discontinued. Anda believes that The Rake Values
perfectly serves the function of placing these products in the
hands of a grateful consumer. “We don’t have sale periods and The
Rake Values is a great platform for items that will not remain in
our core collection. We think that they will go to a good
home!”
When founder Wei Koh first told Anda about the concept of The
Rake Values, the synergies and harmonies were apparent from the
get-go. “We know that The Rake follows our mission to put the
customer first and it also helps us to know that products we
created with care will be appreciated by The Rake Values’
customers,” Anda says. There are also clear parallels between The
Rake Values’ sustainability stance and Anderson & Sheppard’s
commitment to ethical production and corporate social
responsibility. “Bespoke tailoring is a very decent way of
producing clothes as there is little waste,” Anda says. “Our
cutters are trained to cut with as little waste as possible and the
materials that we use are biodegradable and properly sourced.” She
says A&S’s workforce receives training in best practices and
notes that “the conditions in the workrooms are pleasant —
otherwise there would be a mass walkout!”
Naturally, taking care of the tailors is paramount. Bespoke,
Anda points out, is the company’s heart and soul. “We carry this
attitude on to what we have made for the Haberdashery and only work
with manufacturers who share our values,” she notes. Anda says that
she and her team personally visit and inspect the factories where
their ready-to-wear products are made. This sort of responsibility
and attention to detail are essential if Anderson & Sheppard
wishes to meet the demands of an increasingly
environmentally-conscious consumer. One famous client is especially
fastidious in this regard. “When we filled in the renewal documents
for HRH The Prince of Wales’ Warrant, the largest section required
us to show that we have reduced our spend on energy and packaging.
We also had to supply documentation from our suppliers on sourcing
for wool and cotton.” When it comes to righteous consumption,
Prince Charles is “very much ahead of the curve,” Anda says. Much
like a Rake Values customer.
