After a year where opportunity for self-expression has been stymied, Barbanera provide the perfect gateway for
rebellion and relaxation with their Hawaiian shirts. Dedicated to the genius of Hunter S. Thompson, founder of the
gonzo journalism movement, they have used a precious 100% Japanese rayon fabric. The shirts feature a sharp camp
collar which will overlap beautifully on jacket lapels; mother-of-pearl buttons add a touch of luxury, whilst the
handprinted patterns make these shirts truly authentic pieces. The light blue rayon “pineapple” version worn
underneath their cream suit, and paired with their new brown Cormac waxy kudu leather boots, whilst donning Hunter
S. Thompson’s signature orange tinted aviator sunglasses, would be considered a countercultural outfit of the
highest order. Alternatively, wear with their Bandito jeans or shorts, and let’s not forget their woven loafers – a
massively underrated summer shoe style.
Spaghetti Westerns are firmly part of their eclectic set of cultural reference points, but they’re not a Western
brand. Sergio says: “We may be influenced by Western style, but we try to create pieces utilising different
materials or with different fit and details – we make them all our own”. The Spaghetti Westerns were predominately
produced and directed by Italians, and were often filmed in landscapes featuring high ridgelines in Southern
Italy.
Named after Burt Reynolds, the charismatic actor and icon of masculinity, their blue and red Japanese cotton
long-sleeved shirt is an Italo-Western masterpiece. In a tasteful blend of blue and red in an original Western
pattern and smooth fabric, this shirt has been intelligently optimised in its shape with clean lines, which gives it
a less boxy shape for added sex appeal. Despite its striking façade, which is befitting to the Sicilian landscape,
it is a very dynamic shirt. It looks just as cool when tucked into their Bandito jeans as it does when worn
underneath a formal jacket to give the outfit a twist. Stone washed and bleached to obtain the right ‘vintage look’
their blue ‘stars’ Japanese indigo cotton shirt, also named after Burt, perfectly embodies the carefree nature of
wide-open terrain – with only a dilapidated petrol station in sight. On the theme of being on the open road and the
‘king’ of it for that matter, the aptly named Mustang black vintage Western shirt in 100% silk is a garment infused
with accomplished hedonistic utility. Taking inspiration from the ‘satin’ Western shirts typical of the ‘40s and
‘50s it is a mixture between western-wear and rockabilly style. But as Barbanera do, they’ve interpreted it their
way with white piping details and black mother-of-pearl buttons. The classic touch of a point collar adds some
subtle sophistication to the shirt, which gives you licence to be bold and wear it with tailoring – and you could
follow Sergio’s methods of doing things out of the ordinary by wearing a Western-printed neckerchief with it – for
some added rakishness. Alternatively, you can perfectly envisage one of the renegades of popular culture wearing
this shirt on rogue travels through the Arizona desert on a Harley Davidson VRSCDX Night Rod Special.
Amongst their summer additions is a strong assortment of polo shirts. As in their winter collection they’re dedicated
to Mr Pier Paolo Pasolini, but come in a summer appropriate shaved cotton. Imbued in each polo is a subtle touch of
retro flair, through their choice of colours ranging from mustard to a light brick red, whilst the buttonless v-neck
design features some vintage ribbed details that are reminiscent of ‘50s and ‘60s Italy. Alternatively, in either
burgundy or navy you can opt for polos with a three-button placket. In true Italian style these polos fit close to
the body, and so should be tucked into trousers. Jeans or pants with a flat-front are advisable if you want to match
the sex appeal of the famous Italian lotharios such as Gigi Rizzi.
A fairly simple garment yet so often impaired by the foolish ways in which people wear them, the Henley shirt is not
a common phenomenon in the sartorial menswear market. However, Henley shirt enthusiasts will be delighted to hear
that Barbanera have stamped their own impassioned mark on it, which will be available soon, as part of the brand’s
second drop. Long-sleeved and in a textured knitted cotton, their Henley designs can be worn both casually with
jeans or more formally underneath a suit. Elsewhere, in the second phase of their collection there is a denim
jacket, which combines with just about every Barbanera creation. We will also see the arrival of their highly
anticipated selection of suiting, which will come in both single-breasted and double-breasted guises, that reveal
beautiful silhouettes – and in case you were wondering what their interpretations of the suit are – all we can tell
you is that they’re actually very classic with the jackets featuring typical Italian tailoring details and the
trousers in high-waisted designs. It sums up the Barbanera collection in that originality and tradition are the
basis of what they are, they just masterfully implement their own expert quirks – which I must say should be
embraced and admired.
