Basmajian's Greatest Hits: Gieves & Hawkes
The Rake considers Gieves & Hawkes' collection of sartorial 'greatest hits', for Autumn/Winter '16, at London Collections: Men.
What can one say about the most fashionable brand on Savile Row? Gieves & Hawkes is nothing less than a luxury British powerhouse nowadays, and the house's Autumn/Winter '16 collection serves only to reinforce this. Indeed, it was almost as though Chief Creative Officer, Jason Basmajian decided to produce a series of 'greatest hits', deftly blending together the finest elements from his previous work for Gieves; from an exquisite silk jacquard dinner jacket, to soft notch-lapel double-breasted flannel blazers paired with chinos, sophisticated knitwear or signature structured overcoats, all such iconic 'Basmajian' touches were present together, in a collection capable of catering to even the most demanding individual. Through the subtle use of graphic patterns and frankly sublime warm tones of cream, taupe and biscuit - a most refreshing and indulgent colour palette for autumn/winter - the collection feels cohesive and reassuringly simple, although of course simplicity is arguably the hardest thing to get right in luxury menswear. Fortunately, thanks to Gieves's unimpeachable reputation for quality of craftsmanship, the collection feels spotless. Intended to be for the Gieves man of leisure, Autumn/Winter '16 contrasts beautifully with the urban, powerful aesthetic of the house's current winter collection, and yet offers a clear continuation on from the tropical travel collection coming this spring. Clearly, creating a smooth narrative for the house is a Basmajian specialism. Alongside his signature formalwear and suiting, a wealth of beautifully crafted casual jackets, blousons, overcoats with attitude, chunky knitwear, superior shoes and sneakers blended into a frankly masterful vision for the wardrobe of the contemporary man of taste. As ever, when we think things can't get any better at Gieves & Hawkes, they do. In summation, if the notion of 'lifestyle' is key to modern menswear, Gieves & Hawkes has to be a star player; no other brand retains such a rich sense of elegance and formality, befitting its heritage, whilst having redefined what it does in such an extraordinary fashion.
Photography by Joe Harper.