Code / June 2016

Wedding Tails: Dress for a Wedding

Editor Tom Chamberlin invites Rake readers into his fitting room with favoured tailors Kent, Haste & Lachter.

Dress for a wedding, in my humble opinion, is so much more fun for men than for women. Ladies can more or less rely on having to wear a dress in one form or another that isn’t white. And whilst I know that dresses come in many forms, for men, there are minimum three dress code possibilities to play with. These are traditional morning suit, suits or black tie.

I will start with the latter as it is not applicable in the case of my nuptials and shouldn’t be with yours. Don’t get me wrong, if you have already done it, then I am sure you looked marvellous, but I wouldn’t recommend it unless it is in the evening then at least it is performing its function. For now let’s stick with the first two. It just so happens that I will be doing both at my wedding.

The idea of making a change at the wedding might be regarded as a tad OTT; but don’t judge too soon, there are sound reasons. Well one really, and that is that if all goes to plan, it is going to be very hot and wearing a morning suit all day does not a comfortable groom make.

"The tails should graze your legs and the collar should sit flush against your neck.".

A morning suit is a tremendously hard garment to make. It is even harder to make a good ready-to wear version. The best tell of a ready-to-wear suit is the way in which the back of the collar sits way off the neck and shirt collar. The morning suit is no different here, but the extra tell is the way in which the tails stick 12 inches away from the back of your legs. The tails should graze your legs and the collar should sit flush against your neck. The coat itself has a complex array of panels that make this garment particularly difficult to make. So my best advice is to get this made by someone who has a good reputation for this specific piece of kit. In my case, when one of the most reputable house’s on Savile Row rang me to munificently offer their house to make the coat for me, on hearing who it was that I had already commissioned, such was their reverence and respect for him that they didn’t bother. The tailor is John Kent of Kent, Haste and Lachter.

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Tom Chamberlin

Editor of The Rake Magazine