Craft / November 2015

Dior Homme: Suit Genealogy

Founded in 2001, the Dior Homme suit atelier calls on the incomparable savoir-faire of Italian craftsmen recognized the world over.

Located in Northern Italy and developed through a close collaboration between the Parisian design studios, Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche works from the sketches of each Dior Homme suit initiating five weeks of work.

An exclusive choice of fabrics are presented with hand cutting, and then hand sewn to ensure high quality traditional animal fiber interlining sewn, intricate pressing of the shoulder line, invisible holding stitches, top collar insertion following long-held rules, reverse seams and buttons sewn by hand, constant quality control.

Sketch & Pattern

The Dior Homme studio sends the manufacturer the technical elements necessary for the creation of a piece designed by Kris van Assche. Upon receipt, a paper pattern is produced for each design. It will serve as the base for the execution of unique pattern blocks, cutting the fabric, and devising size grading using computer technology. Selected from a choice of traditional Italian fabrics or very inventive Japanese ones, each bolt of fabric is the subject of an intense quality control before being laid out in stacked layers on a computer-controlled cutting table.

Cutting & Assembly

Cutting out of all the elements of a suit is trusted to a single machine. It's the guarantee that the use of a single piece of fabric can provide. The metal pattern blocks for cutting out top collars and revers are exclusive to each model. These elements, especially characteristic of Dior Homme suits, are then cut out by hand. The traditional assemblage of the three constituent elements of the body of a Dior Homme jacket (lining, fabric, interlining) is an expression of the quality of construction that comes from the couture spirit of the house of Dior. The inner construction of a jacket is its soul. Dior Homme jackets are entirely mounted. The canvas gives the jacket its elegance, its lightness, but also its substance and hold. The mounting operation is one of the most delicate and requires a level of experience that only a long tradition can guarantee. The interlining, the internal part between the fabric and lining, is essential here. Its composition, based on high-quality materials, is minutely studied. Similarly, for the Dior Homme sleeves, the interlining is made up of five elements, all of natural origin.

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Sufiyeh Hadian

Sybarite: a person who is self-indulgent in their fondness for sensuous luxury. Synonyms: hedonist, sensualist, voluptuary, libertine, pleasure seeker, playboy, epicure, glutton, gourmand, gastronome...