Lock & Co. Hatters' Storied Heritage

In the 18th century, she says, “We saw a real shift in hat wearing mainly due to the different hair styles worn by men. Elaborate wigs became a thing of the past and men began to wear beaver fur felt top hats. But it was in the latter half of the century that the silk top hat — known as hatters plush — rose to popularity and really put Lock & Co. on the map. We became the destination for top hats, selling thousands a year. It was also in 1759 that James Lock moved the shop across the road to where we are today, due to the eastern side of the street being sunnier and thus more popular with clientele.”

According to Rigby, “Probably the most documented story of Lock’s history happened in 1805. Admiral Nelson had been a loyal customer for years but the bicorne hat he’d ordered from Lock was the one he died wearing on board HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.” Several decades later, Edward Coke ordered a new style of hat for his gamekeepers to wear on the Holkham estate in Norfolk. “This hat, commissioned by Lock & Co. to be made by the Bowler brothers, went on to become one of the most iconic hats of all time. We still provide bowlers to the Holkham estate today and sell a great many to customers both here in the shop and through our website. The bowler’s distinctive silhouette has not changed much since its creation in 1849, and it remains one of our most sought-after hats.”

As far back as the early 1900s, tweed flat caps have been made and sold at Lock & Co. “During the war years, we had our very own cap-maker, Mr. Block, and today we continue to make our caps in the UK using British tweeds,” says Rigby. Over the past 100 years, Rigby remarks, “Lock has become renowned for hatting notable politicians, most famously Prime Ministers Sir Winston Churchill — a silk top hat for his wedding day, the Cambridge, Homburgs and bowlers — and Sir Anthony Eden. In 1953 Lock & Co. received a request to reline the Coronation crowns for the now HRH Queen Elizabeth. And it was in 1962 that Charlie Chaplin visited Lock for his bowler.”

Lock & Co.'s grey felt and fur fedora in issue 38 of The Rake. Photograph by Thomas Lavelle.

Though ‘awfully English’ bowlers and posh top hats are a signature of Lock, men’s bestsellers today include fine Panamas in the summer and felt trilbies and fedoras in winter. Women’s needs have also been seen to via a millinery division, established in 1993. “Our couture designs have graced some of the most famous heads, whilst the women’s ready-to- wear offering has gone from strength to strength,” Rigby says, with Lock’s couture creations now “synonymous with Ladies’ Day at Ascot.”

Male or female, Mayfair local or curious tourist, new customer or prolific consumer, Lock & Co. strives to serve all equally. “One of the best and most endearing things about our customers is that no two are alike,” Rigby says. “We are hugely honoured to have people visit from all four corners of the world and across the age spectrum. We have customers whose forefathers shopped here, through to those who enter our green door for the first time having seen a hat or cap in a magazine.”

Rigby says, no matter who they are, “Every customer is treated in exactly the same way — each relationship is incredibly discreet and we do our utmost to honour their privacy. Of course, we do see some of our famous customers then go on to be photographed in the media and thus word gets out. But we are a hatter here to serve everyone and we’re very proud to do so.”

If you're not able to sample Lock & Co.’s peerless service at their storied shop at 6 St James’s Street, London, peruse the hatmaker's wares here at TheRake.com (where we also promise a superb buying experience).

Samuel L. Jackson wears a charcoal-grey wool cap by Lock & Co. in issue 39 of The Rake. Photograph by Tomo Breje.