He once told The Rake about the Sexton look: “Tremendously elegant – edgy but elegant… sophisticated, but totally
revolutionary.” The spring/summer collection perfectly encapsulates this quote – as although you’ve got the
authentic foundations of classic tailoring, there is the typical and flamboyant Sexton details that include the
architectural shoulders, suppressed waist, elongated trouser silhouettes and the famous wide peak lapels. It is easy
to see why these tailoring eccentricities appealed to the likeminded avant-garde population, that were emerging out
of the youth-driven cultural revolution of the Swinging Sixties. Mick and Bianca Jagger, Twiggy, Justin de
Villeneuve, Ringo Starr and Paul McCartney were just a few of Nutters of Savile Row’s early and loyal customers. He
still outfits the music world's sartorially inquisitive, such as Harry Styles, where you can find the brand’s hot
pink and sunburst yellow two-piece suits inspired by designs created for his global live tour in 2017 in their
Savile Row premises. But back to Mick Jagger, the light sand Gabardine single-breasted suit, which can be bought as
separates and sold on TheRake.com, is inspired by the suit that Sexton made for Mick Jagger for his wedding to
Bianca in Saint Tropez in 1971. Cut from luxurious and lightweight British wool Gabardine, the suit imbues that
swaggering Sexton silhouette, and like the rest of the firm’s jacketing it is made in their one-button house
cut.
Back into the fold are the fabled Hollywood top trousers. Its name comes from the long-standing association with the
wardrobe departments of the big American studios, and although Sexton originally restricted their offering to
bespoke clients, a surge in popularity propelled him to give the same art deco treatment to a ready-to-wear line.
Sitting high on the waist, their summer editions are made in breathable high twist tropical wool. Biscuit and indigo
are added to their colour repertoire for this summer, and when the advection of hot air arrives, tuck the trousers
into a knitted T-shirt or polo shirt for the epitome of smart-casual Hollywood glamour. This look was often
perfectly encapsulated by leading man Tyrone Power who was dubbed ‘King of the Movies’ and better still was labelled
“the god of my adolescence” by Sophia Loren.
Cut in a crisp Irish Linen and designed in their signature two-by-three double-breasted guise, the chocolate brown
suit is neat and sophisticated, but still retains that rock ‘n’ roll edge. With razor sharp twin forward-facing
pleats, Sexton’s House trousers can be bought separately, but such is the presence of this suit, it is advisable to
invest and partner the two. And in keeping with Sexton signature apparel the suit pairs beautifully with either one
of their retro Bengal striped pin or tab collar shirts. Due to the tone of the chocolate brown shade, it allows you
to be bolder with your accessories, where any one of their geometric silk ties would add a nice splash of pizzazz
and panache to the look.
It was nearly 80 years ago, but a contemporary of Pamela Harriman’s once recalled of Paris: “Every night then was
lived in black tie. There was less money than in New York or London, but far more luxury; there were fewer names and
far more taste.” It was not long after the first world war – and bearing in mind we’re at the rear end of the
pandemic it seems that black tie attire is only proliferating amongst a small fraction of tailors in anticipation of
a return to this era in Paris. Edward Sexton is leading this charge with two truly outstanding dinner jackets that
can be worn with their black House trousers and black wool waistcoat. What is so appealing about the firm’s
black-tie designs is that they preserve true originality, but are extremely inventive with Sexton’s trademark
tailoring idiosyncrasies, which includes wide grosgrain lapels, narrow waist, and architectural shoulders.
Elsewhere, in the suiting category there is a classic navy wool high twist single-breasted jacket, which could be an
extremely versatile option for the season ahead. As people are summoned back to their offices and the social
calendar starts to fill up, a navy single-breasted Sexton iteration should be your go-to jacketing piece. If you
prefer a double-breasted option, that is also being sold on TheRake.com.
Once again Edward Sexton is looking beyond the stifling times we have found ourselves in – and with this feel-good
tailoring assortment, that has a firm eye on social occasions, he has certainly brought no small amounts of optimism
for the year ahead, which certainly includes getting dressed up to feel glamorous and elegant again.
