The result of Powell’s work is a piece of sartorial artistry that has us hurriedly
filling our virtual shopping bags with ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s-inspired garments. Take the boxy Cuban collar (aka revere
or camp collar) shirt for example - a 1950s-style relaxed approach to tailoring that has long been dividing menswear
enthusiasts due to its perceived informality and beachy connotations. However, when sported in The Irishman by De
Niro, Pesci, Pacino and co, it exudes an undeniable loucheness that we yearn to channel, particularly when we see
the style of shirt paired with dark, identity-concealing wayfarer sunglasses. There is a certain air of confidence
that comes from the fearlessness with which the leading men sport their colourful, patterned shirts, the slightest
reveal of chest hair reinforcing their machismo. The casualness of the Cuban collar shirt in certain scenes is
offset by the many instances of sophisticated suiting in others. These mafia men mean business, and they express it
via sharp, boxy silhouettes, wide collared jackets and wide, boldly patterned ties. To exude a similar level of
rakish assurance, look to revered tailoring houses such as Edward Sexton, Paul
Stuart and New & Lingwood, whose classic garments
are at once elegant and connotative of power and command.
Another sartorial highlight of the film comes in the form of the rich melange of
outerwear. Over the course of the narrative, viewers are treated to scenes of the mobsters clad in their gloriously
lived-in leather and shearling jackets and trench coats. The continued reliance upon these garments throughout the
five decades that the film spans is proof of their enduring timelessness. These are the staples that we return to
every autumn and winter - trusty investment pieces that never fail us. And the labels that create them are undying
in their commitment to true quality and craftsmanship - the likes of Schott, Chapal and Alfredo Rifugio
for leather and shearling jackets and Valstar and L’Impermeabile for
trenches.
Given that the rest of the mobsters' wardrobes are somewhat pared back, their donning of insignia rings is
particularly striking; a way of communicating power, authority and belonging. Frank's huge liberty coin signet ring,
which he wears on his ring finger, is given to him by Russell as a way of welcoming him into the mob. Today,
insignia rings are considered elegant and classic accessories in a man's wardrobe, bringing character to any look.
Opt for a plain, minimal style, like Phira London's understated gold vermeil and
sterling silver offerings, or something with a bit more flair, such as Marco Del Maso's
engraved oxidised silver pieces.
Ultimately, The Irishman is a lesson in dressing well at every age. As the film jumps
back and forth between decades, showing the characters at various stages of their lives, one thing persists - style.
Invest in timeless classics and you too can achieve it.
