The result of Powell’s work is a
piece of sartorial artistry that has us hurriedly filling our
virtual shopping bags with ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s-inspired garments.
Take the boxy Cuban collar (aka revere or camp collar) shirt for
example - a 1950s-style relaxed approach to tailoring that has long
been dividing menswear enthusiasts due to its perceived informality
and beachy connotations. However, when sported in The Irishman by
De Niro, Pesci, Pacino and co, it exudes an undeniable loucheness
that we yearn to channel, particularly when we see the style of
shirt paired with dark, identity-concealing wayfarer sunglasses.
There is a certain air of confidence that comes from the
fearlessness with which the leading men sport their colourful,
patterned shirts, the slightest reveal of chest hair reinforcing
their machismo. The casualness of the Cuban collar shirt in certain
scenes is offset by the many instances of sophisticated suiting in
others. These mafia men mean business, and they express it via
sharp, boxy silhouettes, wide collared jackets and wide, boldly
patterned ties. To exude a similar level of rakish assurance, look
to revered tailoring houses such as Edward
Stuart and New &
Lingwood, whose classic garments are at once
elegant and connotative of power and command.
Another sartorial highlight of
the film comes in the form of the rich melange of outerwear. Over
the course of the narrative, viewers are treated to scenes of the
mobsters clad in their gloriously lived-in leather and shearling
jackets and trench coats. The continued reliance upon these
garments throughout the five decades that the film spans is proof
of their enduring timelessness. These are the staples that we
return to every autumn and winter - trusty investment pieces that
never fail us. And the labels that create them are undying in their
commitment to true quality and craftsmanship - the likes of
Rifugio for leather and shearling jackets and
Given that the rest of the mobsters' wardrobes are somewhat
pared back, their donning of insignia rings is particularly
striking; a way of communicating power, authority and belonging.
Frank's huge liberty coin signet ring, which he wears on his ring
finger, is given to him by Russell as a way of welcoming him into
the mob. Today, insignia rings are considered elegant and classic
accessories in a man's wardrobe, bringing character to any look.
Opt for a plain, minimal style, like Phira
London's understated gold vermeil and sterling
silver offerings, or something with a bit more flair, such as
Maso's engraved oxidised silver pieces.
Ultimately, The Irishman is a
lesson in dressing well at every age. As the film jumps back and
forth between decades, showing the characters at various stages of
their lives, one thing persists - style. Invest in timeless
classics and you too can achieve it.