Stories / October 2019

The Heroes of Luxury Menswear

The Rake salutes our favourite British and international brands that take their ethical responsibilities seriously. But here’s the thing: if clothes are made with care, they should be purchased in a similar manner…

Sand linen double-breasted jacket, Edward Sexton; white thin cotton shirt, brown wool mix Manny trousers and blue silk patterned tie, all Rubinacci; purple carnation lapel pin, Cinabre; burgundy cotton spotted pocket-square, Anderson & Sheppard.

It might sound bizarre for a menswear magazine to say this, but there are few things in the world today less appealing than high fashion. The designer world has had a rough ride of late — when ‘sustainability’ is the buzzword that affluent consumers are responding to, the burning of millions of pounds worth of excess stock and dystopian-looking news footage of pollutants pouring from factory chimneys are far from encouraging developments. Thankfully, The Rake is no ordinary menswear magazine. This is a title that prefers to back the underdog and champion the virtues of small-scale, responsible craftsmanship over the giants of designer menswear. And, while making clothes sustainably is doubtless more important than ever before, it’s not the sole criterion by which to measure a brand’s conscience. Beyond creating clothes with a low carbon footprint, making menswear with a moral compass is just as important. Creating something with pride, creating things that are built to last using natural materials, and employing local communities all count, too. The brands that do this are our ethical menswear heroes: makers and manufacturers who produce clothes not just with attention to quality but with a principled imperative.

Take Turnbull & Asser, for example. Today the brand is helmed by the Creative Director Becky French, who is thoroughly on-brand when it comes to creating clothes with a conscience. “I think the process of ‘making’ is special wherever it happens, but when it supports a community, the sense that you’re doing something special is enhanced,” she tells The Rake. “Having our own workrooms in Sidcup and Gloucester mean that we are in touch with our makers constantly.” Not only that, but this allows Turnbull & Asser to re-collar and re-cuff each and every shirt they sell when said collars and cuffs eventually fray — as collars and cuffs are wont to do. Get in touch with Turnbull and you can return your bespoke or ready-to-wear shirts to the Gloucester workshop to have a fresh collar and cuffs sewn on, extending the life of a single shirt indefinitely. If they can’t match the shirt’s original cloth, you can have your new collar and cuffs in classic white poplin for a quintessentially English look.

Tags

Contributor

Aleksandar Cvetkovic

Aleks is Deputy Editor at The Jackal and former staffer at The Rake. He’s long harboured a passion for fine menswear, well-timed dramatic pauses and stiff drinks.