It is available in 18ct white-gold or 18ct rose-gold, and measures 43.9mm in diameter. With a thickness of 13.8mm, it
is no under-the-cuff dress watch. It is powered by the automatic Breguet calibre 77F1 with 40 jewels and equipped
with an 18ct gold rotor. The movement provides a power reserve of 55 hours when wound.
The dial offers an elegant interpretation of the world on the wrist via a play on materials and superimposed plates.
On the first gold base, the hand-guilloché waves lap gently against the shores of the continents. The sunburst dial
base, attired in abyssal blue, creates the impression of a permanent waltz of the wave motifs. An additional plate
made of sapphire is composed of the metallised meridians and the continents are treated to horizontal satin
brushing, while their coastlines are subtly outlined with a metallic turquoise border. Finally, an outer flange
serves as a support for the various elements present on the dial. The result features brilliantly crafted dimensions
and surfaces thanks to various treatments requiring several weeks of work. It is also good to know the watch is
water resistant to 100 metres — we wouldn’t want any problems from dive-bombing off that 150 footer in the Med.
JH
Purdey Hanning dry wax jacket
The retail emporium on the corner of Purdey & Sons’ South Audley Street premises in Mayfair is something of a
curiosity shop, a place where knives and other accessories for budding falconers sit alongside staghorn whistle
thumbsticks, Swarovski scopes for surveying the landscape while stalking in the Scottish Highlands, and — our
favourite piece — a marquetry cigar humidor, made from 48 different types of wood, that doubles as a model of the
building in which you’re standing (it even has the world war II bomb damage to the entrance pillars).
It shouldn’t be forgotten, though, that Purdey — one of the most renowned makers of sporting shotguns and rifles —
are also purveyors of outdoor pursuits apparel. Pieces such as this wax jacket, which has been crafted specifically
with the summer months in mind. For those unfamiliar with the ‘dry’ part of this sartorial genre, let’s start with
the wax jacket’s backstory. It was invented in the 18th century in Scotland by a company called Francis Webster
Limited, who would infuse the cloth with linseed oil. Supple, comfortable and water resistant, the British Navy and
the crew of early tea clippers soon caught on to wax jackets’ practical appeal.
An alternative to the paraffin or natural beeswax often used today, dry wax is a relatively new innovation, which,
unlike traditional outerwear designed to keep the wearer warm and dry during rural endeavours such as hunting,
shooting and fishing, is dry to the touch, so it doesn’t have that slightly dank feel that tempts the uninitiated to
drape it over the nearest radiator.
The appeal here goes beyond tactility. Made from woven cotton in a subtle herringbone pattern, the piece has a
wind-cheating showerproof outer shell, but remains lightweight and, being only half-lined, offers excellent
manoeuvrability. Hunting-inspired design details include quilted shoulder patches, a storm cuff neck and the kind of
voluminous pockets that have become synonymous with bucolic weekend pastimes. Handily, it also offers side entry to
the lower pockets and a double-ended zip.
One’s inner vanity needn’t be left behind in the metropolis, of course, and this garment is made more stylish by back
vents, an adjustable cord at the waist, horn buttons and, most importantly, the fabric’s tendency to crease
naturally over time, making for a distressed, lived-in look.
All in all, it is an investment that will come to represent your own personal comfort when leaving town for the
weekend. SH
Asprey & Bugatti 24k rose-gold La Voiture Noire sculpture
They’ve held a royal warrant since 1862. They’ve helped bring Art Deco design values north of La Manche. They’re the
official jewellery sponsors of the Baftas, their wares have appeared in endless box-office smashes, and they even
made the Henri Delaunay trophy held aloft by Italy as winners of last summer’s European Championship. Oh, and Prince
William has played for their polo team. If ever there has been a luxury brand that refuses to rest on its laurels,
though, it is Asprey.
Asprey have been a prolific collaborator for decades. The only known Patek Philippe watch to namecheck the retailer
on the dial bears Asprey’s moniker, while a much more recent joint effort with Formula One saw the re-creation of
silver racing cars and other motorsport artefacts. Asprey have perhaps found their ultimate creative partner,
though, in Bugatti, a company whose eponymous founder, Ettore, was born into “a family of artists who just happened
to end up making cars”, as one British broadsheet put it (his father, Carlo, was a furniture and jewellery designer;
his brother, Rembrandt — not that one — an animalier whose sculptures now sell for millions).
