John Lobb: Saddled with Quality

It is the Hermès-owned arm that has unsurprisingly seen the greatest evolution. Up until 1982 it was only possible for the privileged few to commission bespoke from the firm, but during that year the first ready-to-wear collection was launched. In the midst of this endeavor it brought the brand back to the world’s shoemaking mecca, Northampton. Stringent levels of craft are still applied, where each shoe involves 190 steps. This level of attention is still quite extraordinary considering the bespoke process takes 300 steps. And the company if anything has stayed true to its origins in terms of embracing adventure and movement.

Produced on a new 1019 last, their black suede and grain calf leather tech Foundry sneaker is a fine example of their continued ability to push technical boundaries. Made using a special techno fabric, which increases breathability, it is also fully lined for added comfort, whilst the diamond Rasp design on the sole is a unique stylistic quirk to John Lobb. A masterclass in contemporary minimalism, these sneakers in either white or black are designed to be worn in multiple environments. Elsewhere, and evidence of their forward-thinking approach, their plimsoll shoe is enhanced with the houses’ signature anthracite double-buckle. It may seem mad at first, but when you look at how neat and elegant this plimsoll shoe is, it perfectly represents the blurred lines between casual and formal, with a nod to archival sportswear styles.

Moving on and nearly as familiar an appellation as the brand that produced it, the iconic Lopez loafer from John Lobb first appeared in 1950. Worn by the artistic, political and economic cognoscenti, it is hard to think of a style of shoe that has been embraced so vehemently by the crème de la crème of society. Today the model comes in a slightly slicker form with a contemporary edge that makes them attractive to wear in summer. The brown suede versions in the past have regularly been seen on the feet of spectators at high-profile horse race courses such as Longchamp, Deauville and Newmarket – as they combine elegantly with smart linen attire.

The William, a quintessential double-buckle style whose narrative goes back to the 1940s, combines well with a navy business suit – a combination that should be pondered for your return to the office. From rock gods in their slim-tailored, high-hemmed trousers to country squires in their loose-fitting corduroy trousers and tweed overcoat, the suede Chelsea boot boasts unparalleled versatility. John Lobb’s ‘Lawry’ Chelsea boot, whose silhouette and exquisitely textured elastic are actually what supplements the rest of the louche/worn outfits of the avant-garde or country aristos, with a touch of fit, elegance and discretion.