Look Of The Week: Through The Grapevine
Navigating your way through the sites of the medieval villages in the South of France, will require stops at suave restaurants and vineyards, which is where tailored separates in lighter cloths on the smart side of casual are going to be the optimum choice.
Many of the world’s famous wines come from Bordeaux, but so do vast numbers you will never have heard of. There’s many similarities between Bordeaux’s sophisticated wine scene with that of the belt of the world’s tailoring industry that is undeniably devoted to craft. Numerous vineyards in the area have existed on word-of-mouth recommendations for decades. They put quality, authenticity and provenance high up on their list of priorities as do the tailoring brands we present to you. The quality of craft that has often been honed from past generations using ancient traditions is a mature process, where the established techniques alongside the use of luxurious materials often means the clothes will be able to be passed on to later generations, if looked after. If you’re of a certain age, you might remember a famous television commercial tagline from actor Orson Welles who said: “We will sell no wine before its time.” In an era where consumers are gripped by fast fashion, this phrase aptly resonates with the philosophy of the brands we have on The Rake platform, where their commitment to artisanal diligence often means that each item of clothing passes through multiple hands, whilst taking many hours to complete. Wine tours in the region during the Euro-Mediterranean heatwave requires a stylish smart casual appearance, whilst factoring in the heat. At Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, just outside the medieval town of Saint-Émilion you’re able to wander past the green, bucolic vineyards, whilst taking in the grandeur of the Château and its grounds. It is run by Errol Flynn lookalike Stephen von Neipperg, whose family acquired the estate in 1971. A tailored jacket is necessary, especially if you’re invited to wine tasting, accompanied by a lunch. Cloth of the lighter variety such as linen is best to combat the heat. Vineyards are not really the environments for outlandish dressing, so is best to keep it simple with neutral colours, where the quality of the tailoring will shine through. Here’s this week’s look to help achieve this: L.B.M. 1911 jacket: A pale linen jacket enamours a relaxed, dégagé elegance, which is exactly what L.B.M. 1911’s intention is. The Italian menswear brand are specialists in deconstructed tailoring. The jacket is completely unlined, which gives it tremendous breathability. Whether you’re in the Bordeaux area for a wine tour, taking in the medieval sites if the old-town or having lunch in Cap Ferret, where all the stylish Bordelais families slip off to for the weekend this is one of the most versatile and stylish options to have in your summer armoury. The beige hue also means you have extended trouser options to pair with it. Rubinacci Manny trouser: Rubinacci’s famed Ghurkha style trousers do come in a variety of colours from beige to navy if wine isn’t your colour, but wearing as a separate with a beige jacket, the colours combine beautifully. The high waist on the Gurkha strap means that the equilibrium between length of jacket and height of trouser remains in sync, considering that many Italian jackets are cut with a slightly shorter back.
Magnus and Novus shirt: Based in Hong Kong, Magnus and Novus perfectly encapsulates the feeling of bespoke traditions in their ready-to-wear lines. This white Oxford cotton business-casual 'leisure’ shirt is no different with its relaxed yet refined features. Handcrafted from the finest cotton poplin and woven by Swiss mill Alumo, it consists of the brand’s signature whole-cut collar with concealed pearl enclosures ensuring the collar remains upright. Worn with the top buttons undone, the design of the collar presents this beautiful volume against the unstructured Italian shoulders of the jacket which are neater and more rounded than the padded English style of shoulder.