Inspired by Dutch photographer Hans van der Meer, who travelled Europe capturing the most iconic moments of lower league football matches, Patrick Grant exits backstage after his show wearing an ‘IN’ t-shirt; a current theme for us in the UK and Grant's view is evidently clear on the matter.
- E. Tautz over the years has become progressively more relaxed in style, Grant admits to us while we talk to him after the show. The silhouette is much looser than before, he explains, with far less structure and more drape. His designs for SS17 are not a far cry from Grant’s roots at Savile Row bespoke tailors Norton & Sons; the ‘controversial’ short shorts seen today are based on a 1950s military work wear short that Norton & Sons used to make for the British Army in their Cookson & Clegg factory.
By moving into more relaxed tailoring and luxe work wear, E. Tautz are at the forefront of progressive design, with a firm belief that men should be wearing chic, functional clothing – which is exactly what Grant is aiming for.
The main aim is to allow tailoring to be worn in different ways, so the fabrics and construction are light. Grant says, “the pads are gone, the shoulders have dropped a bit, its straighter and easier. I get the feeling that men just want to wear easy clothes”.
There is an ease and a romantic air about the collection, the colours are natural tones of nude, grey and navy. A lot of time was spent in finding natural dyes for the collection, for instance the indigo colour for the denim, which Patrick describes as having a natural softness to it; a dye that fades in a beautiful way.
This collection not only focuses on its singular component pieces but also on a broader sense of style, from multi-pocket anoraks styled with a simple striped shirts and indigo work jeans, to double breasted jackets with shorts. Grant goes on to say, “I think the suit doesn’t have to be formal, I want the suit to feel like something that anyone can wear at any time. I used to be really anti jacket and jeans, just because I see too many straight dull jeans with a blue blazer. But I think it can be done in a different way; we have a beautiful brown jacket.”