London Collections Men SS17: Turnbull & Asser

A flamboyant collection inspired by the great playboy Grand Prix drivers of the 1970s, Turnbull & Asser SS17 is enough to get even the most hardened sartorialist’s pulse racing.

The undisputed reigning ‘peacock’ of sartorial menswear, Turnbull & Asser never dissapoints. For spring/summer ’17, the house takes its trademark whirlwind of colour, print and pattern to 1970s Monaco, care of the witty vision of Head of Design Dean Gomilsek-Cole, in a thoroughly louche collection inspired by the glory days of the Grand Prix, complete with its raft of racing driver stars, playboys and potentates.

Rich pops of colour run throughout; from plum mohair cocktail coats or bright jacquard ties, the collection's aesthetic is one of wit, confidence and dashing theatricality. Take for example T&A's lightweight unlined double-breasted blazers, which are fast becoming a staple house look, produced in bright, graphic horizontally striped cloths, with perfect stripe matching. Small blurred grid-check patterned shirts and jackets have been cut in tropical-weight cloths for summer, evoking a sense of speed and motion, as well as offering a nod towards the racing track starting grid or the checked flag. So to do the patterns woven into the house’s English-made ties and pochettes – all of which reflect in some way the major art movements of the 70s – again channelling a sense of flow and fluidity.

The signature T&A siren suit is back too, this time executed in dove grey and powder blue checked linen fabrics, for a suitably breezy take on the traditional boiler suit. Pleated patch pockets with buttoning flaps and formal notch lapels lend an apposite air of gravitas. Elsewhre, rich, bold shades of blue form a cornerstone of the collection – channelling the azure of the Riviera at its most potent, from gorgeous French navy silk jacquard dinner jackets through to dusty blue Hawaiian or pyjama shirts.

The collection is further significant because it feels, more than ever, like the work of a full-spectrum, men’s luxury lifestyle brand. Turnbull & Asser has evidently transcended its traditional identity of luxury shirtmaker, to become a contemporary gentleman’s outfitters in the most elevated sense of the term. From exquisitely conceived and crafted evening wear, through to sports coats, lounge suiting, shirting accessories and pyjamas, the SS17 collection offers absolutely anything and everything that the Monte Carlo-bound bounder with taste could wish for.


June 2016


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