Just a short walk from Florence's Piazza Santa Spirito on Via
San Nicolò 2 is the Stefano Bemer boutique, one of the world's most
reputable bespoke shoemakers. Bemer is one of those brands that
fall under the category of "If you know, you know", providing some
of the finest artisanship to an elite following of shoe fanatics
who long ago realized the gulf in comfort and quality that bespoke
shoes can offer. Step into the store today and you'll also find a
brand new cohabiter in the guise of Sartoria Vestrucci, an equally
bespoke tailoring brand that was bought from legendary tailor Loris
Vestrucci upon his retirement by none other than the CEO of Bemer,
Mr. Tommaso Melani. Tommaso's vision has always been to champion
the fine craftsmanship of cloth on the one hand and leather on the
other hand, or foot, as the case may be, and now at the helm of
these to majestic houses, we eagerly watch as his vision becomes
reality. Tommaso himself is one of the best-dressed guys we know
and an absolute gentleman to boot. He displays none of those
voluble Italian idiosyncrasies such as the emotionally nuanced hand
gesticulations but is rather a soft-spoken and thoughtful
individual with a keen eye for details. His style, like his
personality, is subtle but considered, and combines classic
sartorial elements with flourishes of individuality. We caught up
with him during Pitti in January to chat about his stylistic
preferences and his plans for Bemer and Vestrucci. Jamie Ferguson
was at the business end of the lens...
A preference for pattern...
I like to combine some pattern into my outfits, whether it is
the sport coat or trousers. In the winter, cashmere gives me that
cozy and lush feeling that makes cold or rainy days a pleasurable
experience. The jacket I’m wearing here is a vintage cashmere that
I’ve had for a few years now and really feels like a second skin
when I wear it. The pattern, combining the herringbone texture with
a thin pane, gives the jacket a touch of uniqueness that I
appreciate a lot, especially if worn along with a simple pair of
Levi’s! I rarely follow rules but if I had to define one it would
be to avoid the tone on tone (I’ve never been a fan) and to not be
afraid of bold contrasts.
Nautilus but nice...
The 5712A has been my first step in the Patek Philippe world. I
was fascinated (and still am) by the iconic design of the Nautilus,
blended with the “complicated” and yet elegant face, not to mention
the thin, seamlessly smooth bracelet it comes with. It’s timeless,
elegant, sophisticated and subtle. It’s a sport watch, an icon, a
piece of history and a pleasure to feel on the wrist.
Hip to be square...
Pockets squares, nowadays, are an accent and therefore, I like
them to be noticeable and yet always connected with the colour
scheme of the outfit. Since my colours are rather constant, many of
my pocket squares would do the job with what I’m wearing today, but
I specifically like the soft texture of this cashmere one I had
My kind of casual...
The mood, that morning (it was the day we opened the doors of
the re-decorated flagship store in Florence), was my version of
“hard-hatted area” in a sartorial world, so the jeans and cashmere
outfit went very well with the (of course) Stefano Bemer chukka
boots in a Moka brown elephant skin and commando sole.
A match made in sartorial heaven...
The most exciting news for us was unveiled on the day of this
interview. After “dating” for three years, Vestrucci and Stefano
Bemer have decided to move in together! And like newlyweds, they
needed a brand new house to be called home. So we gave the building
a brand new look and layout, to create what the English would have
called “the House of Bemer and Vestrucci”. The aim is to enhance
even more the experiential component of our proposition. So we
created a place around the craftsmanship and the style that we
bring forward and we complemented it with a coffee and liquor bar,
a newsstand for fashion addicts and a fitting room that feels like
a plush living room. This will become our “template” for future
locations, most probably starting with Milano by the end of