Grenfell for The Rake: The Weatherproof Despatch Rider
So often in luxury menswear, the raincoat seldom garners the attention it deserves. There’s no danger of that when it comes to our latest collaboration with heritage British outerwear brand Grenfell, which seeks to elevate the humble trenchcoat to something altogether more empowered.
Grenfell, excitingly, is a brand that you might not be that familiar with. We have to admit that it’s even new to The Rake, which isn’t something that happens every day. We discovered the brand a few months back when on the hunt for new potential collaborators at Pitti Uomo (proof by the way that we don’t just go there for a jolly twice a year), and were immediately struck by the sense of gravitas that it’s glorious London-made overcoats and outerwear commands.
For context, Grenfell is a British heritage brand at its finest, with a lengthy and pioneering history – though it was only revived from a period of dormancy around a year ago. The Grenfell of old shot to fame in the 1920s, when the intrepid Sir Wilfred Grenfell (known for his expeditions and medical missions to Newfoundland’s Labrador coast) collaborated with Walter Haythornthwaite, the owner of a Lancashire textile mill, to develop a revolutionary new weatherproof cotton cloth that was capable of standing up to the toughest of conditions, but which was nonetheless breathable. The company capitalised on the success of its unique ‘Grenfell cloth’ for much of the following century, and was universally lauded as a leading outfitter to explorers, aviators, mountaineers and automotive giants. Both Sir Malcolm and David Campbell broke the land speed record whilst wearing Grenfell coats, and it is this extraordinary history that informs the contemporary designs of the company today.
The remarkable thing about Grenfell cloth is that despite its near miraculous weather-resistant properties, it’s an entirely natural fibre, pure cotton, free from coatings or synthetic treatments, which is weather-proof simply thanks to its extraordinary density. The cloth takes the form of a super-tight gabardine woven with 600 threads per linear inch both in the warp and weft. Consequently, it keeps out the wind and rain effortlessly and yet breathes beautifully, more than making-good on Dr Grenfell’s belief that “you could not keep a statue warm by putting a fur coat on it; clothing must be windproof but must breathe.” The development of the original Grenfell cloth was no mean feat, taking several years of research and development; special yarns were required, which had to be spun from scratch, before the looms destined to weave the stuff were specially strengthened. Then the resulting cloth proved itself so naturally waterproof that it wouldn’t take on any dye. Finally, one fateful day in 1923, the code was cracked and Grenfell cloth was born.