As you’d expect from a Savile Row house, the fabrics and construction techniques used are
of supreme standards. Thanks to her education, Yuri has drafted the entire range’s patterns, while Will has had
influence in the cloth choices and silhouettes. The hero product is, without doubt, the Cadogan jacket, a hybrid
between a safari and a wax field jacket. The safari jacket is having a moment right now, so it’s great to see
another tweaked iteration of it with a louche belt sans buckle. “It’s our English safari jacket. It’s cut and
loosely put together in South Korea — kind of like a basted garment — then finished here in London on Savile Row,”
Will says. In a navy and brown wax cotton from Halley Stevensons, which is the world-leading producer of the fabric,
it’s utterly robust and durable. “You can smash it, rip it and it will last you forever,” Will adds. For the
artisanal lovers out there, there are signs of handwork all over the jacket, but nowhere is this more noticeable
than the button holes which have been sewn with a double thread silk twist - which is a touch found normally in
bespoke. Lined in cotton, it has a wire within the one piece curved collar so that in unruly weather you can pop it
up and it’ll stay in place.
For trousers, Yuri & Yuri offer two styles for spring and two for summer. The spring
collection is certainly a bit cleaner and formal. There’s a single pleat trouser in a grey wool/mohair fresco and a
flat-fronted trouser in a beige wool/mohair, both of which have side adjusters and have been cut and constructed
entirely on Savile Row. “The waistband has proper horse hair canvassing in it so it won't roll and you also have the
hand-stitched bar tacks,” Yuri explains and adds that the fork of the trousers is lined with shirting cloth. What
makes these trousers special for a ready-to-wear product, though, is that they’ve had “shape stretched and shrunk
into them with an iron and water. It makes such a difference,” Will says. As such, they’re a phenomenal fit. For
summer, Yuri has been inspired by the trousers worn in The Talented Mr Ripley, “I just wanted to make a
really comfortable trouser,” she explains. Made in South Korea by retired bespoke tailors, they’re a more casual
counterpart to the spring offering. Coming in two shades of Russian linen with double pleats, the beige trouser
without belt loops or side adjusters, whereas the tobacco brown has side adjusters. Intended to be worn on high the
waist, paired with a polo shirt or T-shirt is a clean look that will help you channel your inner Arnold
Palmer.
Moving on to knitwear, Yuri’s family has been in the industry for more than 30 years.
“When I work with them, I can see that they really enjoy making knitwear. So I wanted to work with them on my
brand.” The collection is constructed from a cutting-edge, patented and now defunct Japanese-made yarn called Serie
(pronounced se-re-ya). Yuri’s family bought as much as they could get their hands on and they have enough to last
them several years. With a silk-like handle and Mother-of-Pearl buttons, the shirts are designed to last you 10
years. “It’s vegan friendly and it’s also antibiotic,” Will adds. Yuri then states that they’re the “first company
on Savile Row to offer bespoke knitwear,” which, for those who have an athletic build or are on the larger side of
things, is an ideal offering. “They can bring in their favourite jumper and we can use it as a block to go by,” Yuri
states. Overall, the four polo shirts have a one-piece collar and a 1950s aesthetic to them. Interchangeable and
easy to wear, they’ll pair with all kinds of sports jackets for a more formal take, or, as the solo piece up
top.
It’s not often that there’s a new kid on the Savile Row block and speaking with Yuri and
Will, one can’t help but marvel at their passion and drive. “In five years, I want to make my name on Savile Row
with Will,” says Yuri. Looking at this debut collection available at The Rake, I have no doubt she will
succeed.
