It doesn’t take an expert to realise that New & Lingwood have done something rather spectacular with this coat. At a glance, its broad, full-bellied lapels make for an exceptionally louche touch that elevates the coat and makes a no-nonsense sartorial statement fit for a man on a mission. They are the first thing that speak to you – full and poised like a pair of seductive lips, they are a sartorial siren call to lovers of serious tailoring.
Look a little closer, though, and it’s the details that draw you in one by one. Cut in an exceptionally flattering shape, the shoulders are subtly extended and the waist elegantly nipped to offer a generous hourglass shape that gives a sleek and purposeful silhouette. Slanted pockets draw one’s eye through the coat’s waist, which only serves to heighten the slimming effect of the coat’s lean profile.
The angular flapped breast pocket is a feature often seen on traditional hacking coats, and its presence here helps to define the shape of the coat’s chest, but also adds a touch of old-school equestrian style that one is usually hard-pressed to find ready-to-wear. Equally, the coat itself borrows from the single-breasted closure of a sports coat, protecting one against the elements as the temperature begins to drop throughout autumn, with a single-breasted, four-button front.
Getting up close and personal with those beautiful lapels, one notices another unusual feature; an almost imperceptible flash of colour on the buttonhole. A brilliant touch of authentic detailing by New & Lingwood, those in the know recognise that a red buttonhole signifies membership to France’s most prestigious society, the Légion d’Honneur, of which Sherlock Holmes – the inspiration behind the coat – was a recipient. Our admiration of this coat is such that we think if you haven’t already been granted membership, wearing this might be a game-changer (you’re welcome).
The crimson red lining then, is no coincidence. There is an undeniable thrill in knowing that beneath one’s sophisticated houndstooth-clad exterior lies a daring flash of rakish rouge, complete with an adventurous print. The half-belted waist with box pleats in the back gives the coat a distinctive fluidity and a comfortable freedom of movement, perfect for jaunts around town.
The subtle black and charcoal houndstooth cloth is as iconic as the fictional name behind the coat’s inspiration and offers an exquisite texture that is heavy enough to provide structure and poise without treading on the toes of your winter overcoat collection. Turn-back cuffs balance against the aforementioned lapels, elevating this coat to the status of a sartorial design-classic, ideal for wrapping up this season in superlatively rakish style.