One of the most exasperating (and sadly commonplace) characters you’re likely to meet at Pitti Uomo is the smirking rules-lawyer. You know the type – the real-world-Redditor, here to educate the unwashed masses about which collar must be worn with what lapel, how many folds a tie must have before it can even be considered ‘real’, why the sanctity of sartorial style must never be compromised and so on. He’s obnoxious, he’s tiresome and, quite frankly, he makes getting dressed about as sexy as filing a tax return.
These rules of sartorial style have their place, but style is a dynamic expression of individuality and thus can’t exist without rules being broken. And in the baking heat of the Florentine sun, taking traditional tailoring apart and dressing it down felt not only fun but positively essential. So how to do it exactly? Well firstly, consider that tailoring is a beautiful canvas, but a dress shirt and tie need not be the only materials you use on it. We are blessed today to live in an era where menswear has escaped its obsession with fit-über-alles and has embraced form, drape and silhouette, and that loucheness can happily extend well beyond the jacket and trouser.