There was a moment, 15 years back, when the then fledgling band Franz Ferdinand seemed to catch an interviewer speechless by their dress: far from the rock cliche of T-shirts and leather jackets, they were wearing ties. This was not in the mode of the Beatles. This was no attempt to tick the nice boys’ box with watching grannies. It – and the way the post-punk likes of The Hives and Interpol also took to neckwear at the time – almost seemed like a new way of wearing the tie altogether: not as the finishing touch to formal attire, but as a smarter, maybe ironic, counterpoint to casual attire.
This, indeed, was and is the tie without the uptight inferences. It’s the male take on Diane Keaton’s outfit in Annie Hall – the tie divested of conservatism, but also of conformity; because if you’re wearing a tie with an unstructured jacket, a pair of jeans and sneakers, it’s because you want to, not because the office rules dictate as much.
Of course, this is an idea that designers have played with on the catwalks over and over, precisely because it has – and, remarkably, still has – that power of gentle subversion: Prada has teamed tie with military jacket, Dior with a polo shirt, Paul Smith has shown ties worn loose, louche and schoolboyish. And, in part, a reappraisal of the tie – as a garment we want to keep wearing, but in a new context – follows that of working patterns too: remote working, greater self-employment, the tech boom and the gradual breakdown of formal dress codes that came with it.
But it’s meant that what the tie is, as much as what it stands for, has changed too. If you’re wearing a suit, a fully blanketed or seven-folded woven silk number – thick, glossy and bold – might still be called for. But don’t try wearing this in any sense dressed down, your full Windsor exacting a stranglehold on your futile attempt to look relaxed. The casual tie is altogether less stuffy, with less stuffing – Calabrese 1924 and Francesco Marino, for example, make ties unlined, light and airy so that they’re almost transparent; leaner, less imposing and less restricting, both in the way they’re worn but also in their connotations.