Style / October 2015

The Noble Ninefold Path to Suit Enlightenment: Part V

Trousers: the final frontier on the noble ninefold path to suit enlightenment. Though often overlooked, the humble trouser is as nuanced and sophisticated as the suit jacket, and different cuts, silhouettes…

Step Nine: Trouser Silhouette and Length

Now that you've mastered the fundamentals of the jacket, and know the shoulders and armholes of your suit jacket fit perfectly; now that the lapels are of a style that flatter your physique and that appeal to you aesthetically; now that the waist is the right position, the sleeves and jacket hem are just the right length, let's turn briefly to the trouser.

While trousers will be the subject for a more in-depth article at a later date, for the moment let's acknowledge that even the most stunning jacket can be let down by the matching garment to the south.

Just as your physique dictates what kind of shoulders your suit jacket should have, it also dictates what type of trouser you can wear. For example, a very full-cut, wide-legged trouser is best left to men who are either very tall or very thin, as they have a tendency to overwhelm everything else. In general, The Rake favours a close fitting trouser with a higher waist. Essentially, the line of your trouser should flow in an unbroken line from your waist to your ankle, just suggesting the shape of your legs without being too tight. Similarly, the trouser should fit close through the inner leg but also flow in an uninterrupted line from the fork to the ankle.

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Wei Koh

The Rake's Founder & Editorial Director.