Style / September 2015

The Noble Ninefold Path to Suit Enlightenment, Part III

The jacket’s chest and lapels hold a wealth of expressive possibilities. When worn well, they can create stature or slimness, length or breath – whatever the figure requires. Mastering how these…

Step Four: The Lapels and The Gorge.

As we continue down the path to suit enlightenment, we come to the jacket's lapels. After the shoulders, the lapels are the most defining design characteristic of any suit. They are the vertical framing device for the front quarters, and create the inverted pyramid of shirt and tie that leads the eye to your face. As such, their relationship with head shape, shoulder width and height create a delicate but important dynamic tension that will affect how good a suit looks on you. Unlike the shoulders, while lapels can be selected according to what corresponds to your build, they also offer the potential for immense self-expression.

Generally, everyone looks good with 2½' to 4¼' lapels - although, we have to profess affection for voluptuous 4½' or wider lapels.

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Wei Koh

The Rake's Founder & Editorial Director.