Here atThe
Rakewe take things like shirts rather seriously, and our recent celebration of
eveningwear at Turnbull & Asser’s New York
and London ateliers proved the perfect opportunity for some hands-on research—a dirty job,to be sure, but that’s what
we’re here for. The Turnbull & Asser Bury
Street bespoke shop is one of London’s great
wonders,a place that feels plucked out of time
for all the right reasons. To walk in there is to understand the true magnitude of Turnbull & Asser’s history and heritage—images of the great and good attired in their work adorn the
walls alongside the bespoke patterns of Churchill and members of theroyalfamily. If anywhere was
to inspire one to embark on an exploration of elegant eveningwear, this would be the place. But where to begin?
Turnbull’s bespoke offering encompasses some
2,000-plus fabrics and a multitude of collar and
cuff styles—one can easily fall down a rabbit
hole of choice, even within the sphere of evening-appropriate attire, so having the unrivalled guidance and
experience of Turnbull’s team is not only a boon
but a necessity.
For my part, I already had a firm idea of what I wanted. Being neither great nor
particularly good, I decided the best course of action was to opt for something subtle and timeless, and sprung for
a natty Marcella bib-fronted number with covered buttons, the body cut in a luxurious white Alumo Swiss cotton and
finished with French cuffs and the iconic St. James spread collar. Traditionally, a bib-front style is to be worn when dinner and dancing is on the
agenda (I like to be prepared), and the subtle texture contrasts beautifully with all manner of
eveningwear—my cream linen smoking jacket even
proving a stalwart companion. Boundary-pushing it is not, but it is unquestionably subtle,and the precision of the cutting makes it a thrill to wear.
I’m something of a six-foot-two mess of limbs
and joints, and I can say without hyperbole that the exactingly personalised fit puts almost all of my other shirts
to shame.
The Rake’sEditor,Tom Chamberlin,hadsomething more louche in mind from the get-go.“I was at a black-tie event
where nobody showed up wearing a dinner suit except me and Nick Foulkes, who were both wearing burgundy smoking
jackets. He was wearing this cream silk shirt, and the richness of the material up against the velvet—not to mention the sartorial rebelliousness of not having a
bib—left me feeling somewhat
inadequate,”Tomsays.“When the opportunity arose to work with Turnbull&Asser on this, I knew there was only one option to go
with.”
Ryan Thompson, ourDigitalEditor and master of
sartorial streetwear bricolage, was more cautious at first.“I’ll be the first to admit
that I’m not a natural formalwear
guy,”hesays
with alaugh.“I’m far more at home mixing
smart with casual, so it was with some trepidation that I setfoot in Turnbull & Asser in search of a dress shirt. I was carefully guided towards a
stunning herringbone bib shirt with quarter-inch pleats. Now if only I could approach tying a bow-tie with the same attention to detail!”
Today, as traditional sartorial codes are being challenged, broken down and reforged in
new and dynamic ways, eveningwear remains a resolute bastion of timeless style. Something about putting on a tuxedo
or dinner jacket manages to exert the same entropic pull over men decade after decade. It is a form of dress that
remains eternally adept at bringing out the very best in the wearer. For Quin, the enduring appeal of getting
tricked-out for the evening is easy to
explain.“Most people enjoy dressing
up,and a black-tie event is the perfect time to
pull out all the stops and wear something special. The ladies generally look so glamorous on these occasions, so
it’s good that men can reciprocate the
compliment.”
