Substantial in Flannel

One of the most adaptable yet forgotten about cloths, flannel is always a real hit in winter.
Substantial in Flannel
In the likelihood of your wardrobe teetering on the brink of cloth imbalance this winter, there is one ubiquitous material that might just restore the deficiency in equilibrium. Striking the perfect balance between being snug, smart and comfortable, flannel will certainly fill that void in your wardrobe and more. Soft, fuzzy and hard-wearing yet somehow still sharp as a tack, flannel is the well-dressed man’s best friend, when the mercury drops this winter. Bordering on being a judicial authority on flannel, Douglas Cordeaux, owner and Managing Director of Somerset-based mill, Fox Brothers & Co., describes the fabric: “Flannel is a heavily milled cloth that essentially, once woven, is smashed against wood for several hours, which allows the fibres to bust. Metal brushes may also be used to give the cloth its soft, furry finish, and one or both sides of the material can be mellowed in this manner.” The origins of flannel can be traced back to 17th century Wales, where farmers wore flannel shirts to protect themselves from the elements. The word “flannel” most likely comes from the Welsh word ‘gwlanen’, meaning “woollen article.” Even after all of this time, menswear dilettantes remain woefully unaware of its merits, which is no criticism, but a paradigm of its elusiveness in wider society. One place where flannel is the antithesis of a snow leopard is on TheRake.com.
Douglas Cordeaux, owner and Managing Director of the legendary British mill, Fox Brothers in Somerset
Edward Sexton
The Dapper Don impeccably dressed in a double-breasted grey flannel suit following his trail for racketeering, 1986. (Photo via Getty)
Photo by Piers Cunliffe
A high-quality pair of grey flannel trousers are usually the most versatile piece of apparel in one’s wardrobe. Rendered in an understated charcoal flannel, the new Edward Sexton trousers, cut in their contemporary style enable you to be creative with more tailoring, but due to their restrained elegance you can also be flamboyant with more informal attire. They’re flat-fronted, and arrive without belt loops which gives them the ability to show off your physical attributes around the waist. With forward-facing double-pleats, their House style is cut in the more classic mould with a full leg silhouette – a design reminiscent of the high-rise trousers embraced by the greats of the silver screen. Hollywood’s definitive leading men such as Cary Grant were not nervous pleat wearers, but if you are cautious, the textured single-pleated Duke model from Kit Blake is the consummate introduction.
Accomplished apparel attesting to the very best of informal elegance is going to be instrumental to you this winter. This is when Saharianas and casual shirts really come into their own. G. Inglese have a beautiful selection of Saharianas, whilst fellow Italian Cordone 1956 boast an extensive flannel shirting repertoire featuring vibrant tartan checks, and resplendent plain colours. Each one of those designs are perfect layering options if you don’t feel like wearing a tailored jacket or knitwear.
Photo by Piers Cunliffe
Outfitting the Beatles, Clapton, Mick Jagger and his then wife Bianca, Edward Sexton is used to creating truly knockout pieces. In each collection, there seems to be more than one to revere. Two of them this winter are the striking flannel chalkstripe double-breasted suits in both light grey and navy. They are quintessentially Savile Row, but featuring broad peak lapels, which gives them that rockstar edge. The trousers are pleated, full-cut and finished with side adjusters. Eccentric and flamboyant, whilst inheriting complete originality these flannel suits are the standouts in the realms of ready-to-wear. More than any other winter cloth, flannel grants you permission to break the rules. Offering countless avenues of self-expression, the toasty cloth should be there in abundance in your wardrobe.