Looks / October 2018

That's a Wrap: 7 Winter Coats

Beat the freeze this winter with statement outerwear for every type of outfit.

Rubinacci's Casentino coat comes from wool woven in the Florentine hills.

Prepping for the cold months ahead means investing in a statement jacket that will not only keep you warm but also turn heads. Picking the right one to elegantly protect you from a cold front is not a brisk walk in the park however. With a multitude of styles, silhouettes and fabrics to choose from, you need to think carefully about the various scenarios you'll be stepping into with your coat. Thankfully, we've done all the hard work for you, curating seven of the strongest styles to strut about in this winter.

 

De Bonne Facture Chestnut Wool Trenchcoat

No winter wardrobe is replete without a quality trench coat. In fact every brand under the sun (or rather the rain) has appropriated the iconic silhouette first created by Aquascutum or Burberry, depending on which of the PR departments you ask. Regardless of its genesis, the trenchcoat is a masterfully timeless wardrobe essential. We stumbled upon French brand De Bonne Facture earlier this year at Pitti Uomo and were immediately bowled over by its unrelenting search for quality fabrics and craftsmanship to boot. Their particular interpretation of the trench comes in a rich chestnut hue woven from Italian wool rather than cotton, and comes with real horn buttons. With Raglan sleeves, and half-lined in a tonal viscose lining, it's structural but with a softly tailored finish, perfect for work and play.

Rubinacci Mustard Casentino Ulster Coat

Harking back to the Victorian era, the Ulster coat was traditionally a working daytime overcoat made from hardwearing cloth such as herringbone or tweed. Although classicly British in heritage, Neapolitan tailors Rubinacci have put a colourful Italian spin on their "Casentino" Ulster. Casentino wool, still produced today in the Florentine hills, is instantly recognisable for the soft curl that is obtained from “napping”, and also its vibrant brown, orange and green dyes, making it this the perfect statement winter coat.

De Petrillo Grey Wool Herringbone Coat

Evoking the spirit of Naples’ culture and sartorial prowess, this single-breasted De Petrillo coat provides the ideal piece of winter tailoring. Crafted in a grey wool with a herringbone pattern and with a contrasting lining, this coat features two side pockets, four buttons, and a smart notched lapel. The herringbone pattern makes for a smart contrast to a light grey or charcoal business suit during the week but it also stands up well to pops of casual colour and pattern clashing with knitwear by the likes of fellow Italian Doppiaa.

Kit Blake Navy Blue Wool Overcoat

Kit Blake founder Chris Modoo has produced a stunning rendition of the classic military-inspired double-breasted overcoat in a soft pure wool. Double breasted with cuffs, pleated back and a half-belt detail, it's perfect to slip over a suit as the temperature drops but will also look great contrasted with a bright roll neck sweater peeping through the formal navy exterior. If you haven't already familiarised yourself with the Kit Blake collection which dropped earlier this week, we highly recommend you do so, especially if pleated trousers are your thing (more's the point, why wouldn't they be?).

Grenfell Grey Windowpane Check VBC Flannel Wool Cavendish Coat

As part of The Rake’s Flâneur Collection, Vitale Barberis Canonico has teamed up with Grenfell on a coat featuring a stunning windowpane check, crafted from the famed mill’s original flannel. Made in Italy, the cloth is produced using a dense, matte weave giving it a fleecy feel, making it the ideal fabric for colder temperatures. On a background of dark grey with a contrasting white overcheck, the garment is subtle yet sartorially informed. If you're searching for a slick overcoat for business but with a good dose of panache, you can stop looking.

New & Lingwood Navy Langley Pea Coat

The pea coat has been around since the 1800s, evolving from the thick Melton wool styles originally worn by Dutch sailors and later popularized by the British Navy first (as a uniform for petty officers), and the US Navy some years later (worn by "reefers",the sailors responsible for the unenviable task of scaling the rigging). Remarkably, the style has changed little from those days, a clear indicator of the style's timelessness. This version by New & Lingwood is a peerless interpretation of the classic, crafted in double-face 100% wool with two flat pockets, two slit chest pockets and military-inspired cuff buckles.

Schott Brown B3 Leather Jacket

The B-3 bomber jacket was standardised by the U.S. Air Force in 1936 and was favoured by pilots in their unheated cockpits due to its insulating and dense shearling lining. Schott's iteration is made in the US and is true to the original with a hard-wearing sheepskin outer shell, buckled collar and side-adjusting straps. It's truly as masculine as a jacket can get so we suggest complementing it with an elevated workwear wardrobe such as denim from The Workers Club and rugged boots by Tricker's.

 

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Ryan Thompson