Indeed, this “humble” cloth was originally a utilitarian,
working-man’s fabric, used in making rugged attire for British
miners, American laborers (founder of the eponymous brand, Hamilton
Carhartt was a hardcore flannel enthusiast), and uniforms for
troops in the US Civil War and World War I. Checked, heavy cotton
flannel shirts were, of course, the province of lumberjacks —
before more recently finding favour with Seattle grunge aficionados
of the 1990s and elaborately moustachioed hipsters in contemporary
Brooklyn.
A higher grade of wool flannel has been used in tailoring since
at least the 18th century, but truly came into its own
as a sartorial staple over the past 100 years. In the 1920s and
‘30s, the outrageously voluminous trousers known as ‘Oxford bags’,
sported by rebellious Oxbridge undergrads, were typically tailored
in flannel. During the same period, the white flannel developed by
Fox Brothers in 1904 for use in cricket garb was adopted by members
of the leisure class holidaying in the south of France, Palm Beach
and other exotic locales. (Cordeaux says today, “Ecru flannel is
becoming the new ‘Winter White’ — I recommend a 12- or 13-ounce
cloth, your trousers will achieve the optimum drape with this
weight.”)
By the 1940s, flannel in more traditional, sombre tones had
achieved ubiquity in the worlds of business and politics. See, for
example, the famous image of Winston Churchill toting a Tommy gun
in a Fox chalkstripe flannel three-puece he’d had tailored at Henry
Poole, or the myriad mid-century shots of Fiat tycoon Gianni
Agnelli in tasteful flannel suits. The cloth enjoyed a major boost
in the economic boom times of the 1950s, when it became the uniform
of the American corporate world, a symbol of salaried conformity,
embodied by Gregory Peck’s ‘The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit’.
Many other hues are produced, but grey is the iconic colour for
flannel, a mid-grey the most mix’n’match adaptable. “Our
world-famous greys are dyed using many colours to a closely-guarded
recipe,” says Cordeaux. “Our signature is a very warm-coloured
flannel, never cold or blue in tint. It’s instantly recognisable,
the connoisseur’s flannel.”
As Rake contributor Christopher Modoo put it, “The best flannels
are created using a melange of tones, and mills will combine yarns
in ecru, grey and charcoal to create the desired hue. Fox are well
known for their sepia-toned, yellowish shade of grey, which is
sometimes affectionately referred to as ‘urine soaked’ and can be
recognised at 20 paces.”
Even more comfortable than a lovingly worn-in pair of their
denim brethren, grey flannel trousers are just as versatile as
jeans — perhaps more so, as they are appropriate in virtually all
settings, no matter how casual or dressy. (Meanwhile, try wearing a
pair of Levi’s to tea at the Ritz and see how far you get.)
In considering how to accessorise and wear a pair of grey
flannel trousers, your options are truly wide open. At the most
casual end of the spectrum, they’ll look great with a t-shirt,
leather jacket and sneakers. You could pop on a heavy woollen
jumper, loafers and colourful socks. Or wear a tweed sportscoat,
windowpane check shirt, repp tie and elastic-sided boots.
Then there’s the all-time classic combination. “My favourite way
of wearing flannel trousers is with chocolate brown suede Oxfords,
and a navy blazer, single- or double-breasted — just perfect,” says
Cordeaux. Grey flannel trousers with a black blazer, white shirt,
black silk knit tie and shiny black penny loafers is another
razor-sharp option. (If you’re in possession of the requisite
intestinal fortitude, you could even pair this look with white
socks.)
The silkier a suit, the more difficult it is to wear the pieces
separately. A fluffy matte flannel suit, however, is eminently
breakable. A navy chalkstripe flannel ensemble like Churchill’s?
You could wear the trousers with an off-white (the colour, not the
brand) Aran sweater and Stan Smith-type trainers. Or a navy
turtleneck and blue driving mocassins. Or a t-shirt and denim
jacket.
The coat could be sported with white jeans — or in full Ralph
Lauren-esque devil-may-care mode, coupled with distressed denim, or
grey marl tracksuit bottoms, or camouflage army pants. (Fox makes a
wonderful camo flannel, by the way.) If it’s a three-piece, why not
rock the waistcoat with a vintage western shirt, beat-up chinos and
work boots?
Some of those complementary concepts might sound a little outré.
That’s okay. It may once have been synonymous with conservatism and
drone-like conformity. But more than any other winter cloth,
flannel grants you permission to break the rules. Wear it your
way.
(Photo by Nick Tydeman).
