Flannel possesses the perfect balance of fabric credentials for winter. The cloth is toasty and cosy, whilst
maintaining just the right amount of classical élan. From esteemed mill, VBC, the Edward Sexton olive trouser cut in
their contemporary style is a versatile trouser option heading into cooler months. In a flat-fronted design, they
have the ability to show off your physical attributes around the waist. Sported by rapscallion musicians such as
Mick Jagger and Serge Gainsbourg, their sensuous credentials make them a popular choice, but remember to keep it
neat by tucking in a shirt to the pants. In slightly slimmer designs, Italian tailoring titans, Rubinacci offer a
selection of soft medium-wale corduroy in autumnal hues such as dark beige, green and burgundy, whilst in a colour
palette ranging from brick red to ecru the trousers rendered in luxurious cotton from Sartoria Vestrucci are to be
worn year-round.
Hollywood-Top
Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-Top trousers, only made available in ready to wear a few years ago protrude undeniable
nostalgic elegance. The biscuit high twist wool versions feel fresh and breathable, and like the ‘king of the
movies’, Tyrone Power showed us they can become your go-to tailored trouser – formal enough to wear with a navy
blazer yet relaxed enough to sit with a rollneck and suede blouson.
Double-Pleats
People who enjoy the classical style are much less likely to reject double-pleated pants on the basis of
traditionalism. Those tiny tucks of fabric, between pocket and fly, which add an extra inch of material to each leg,
can create more room and comfort. Think back to the wide-leg, double-pleated trousers that Gary Cooper and George
Raft used to don whilst in the troupe of the stylish elite of 1930s Hollywood. Another specialist in the traditional
trimmings of menswear are burgeoning trouser specialists Kit Blake. The brand’s iconic Aleksandar trousers in
flannel and tropical wool are quite possibly the most versatile trousers in the classic mould you can buy.
Comprising all of the finer details you would expect in impeccably tailored trousers, their double-pleats look
extremely sharp, whilst the trouser’s drape allows for an unblemished silhouette. For vintage appeal the brand’s
mid-brown salt & pepper flannel model comprises a texture, rich in character that will pair nicely with a range
of jackets. The precursor for classically designed trousers was often inflexibility as a compromise for those
classic details. With an unashamedly high-rise, the dark navy Style Fourteen trousers feature a considerably
narrower leg, which takes their formality down a few notches. Whether it be business meetings in the city, dining
out in a London restaurant, these trousers perfectly protrude informal elegance and can be worn through the
winter.
Gurkha
Technical, sartorial and practical, the Gurkha trousers has been undergoing a mini renaissance in recent years, with
no sign of it stopping. It is a resilient, distinctive and romantic trouser, which comes in variety of fabrics.
Complex in nature, but clean in silhouette it is a versatile trouser that will carry you through every season. The
Gurkha trouser takes its name from Nepal’s elite soldiers of the same name and the Gurkhas themselves in turn derive
their name from the Nepalese kingdom of Ghorka. The dependable trouser carries the same traits as their original
wearers the Gurkha military. Despite the British Army having an army six times the size, a British General stopped a
battle mid-fight and basically said: “you fight with us now”. Today though its adventurous spirit lives on through
some of the most reputable brand’s in menswear. Italian tailoring firm, Rubinacci are the most famous for their
Manny trousers. Their flannel Manny trousers comes in a variety of hues, including a classic Rubinacci burgundy
which is a warm option for winter. It is a trouser that pairs exceptionally well with jackets as the high waist on
the Gurkha strap means that the equilibrium between length of jacket and height of trouser remains in sync,
considering that many Italian jackets are cut with a shorter back.
Drawstring
If you’ve taken to the sudden emergence of classic-cut drawstring trousers, there are first-rate inventions from Kit
Blake, Rubinacci, De Petrillo and Connolly. Out of the traps early, there’s some striking drawstring inventions from
Cordone 1956. Cut in a textured flannel, they feature a razor-sharp single-pleat and arrive with turn ups. They’re a
tremendous example of how you can look smart in sophisticated setting whilst still enjoying the comforts of their
leisure class élan.
Single-Pleats
Single-pleated trousers might have been your grandfather’s pants-du-jour, but don’t let memories of the old boy’s
dress code put you off. The tide has changed in recent years, where even the younger crowd are shunning skinny
trousers in favour of elegantly tailored pantaloons with neat details. One way to style them is by channelling your
inner Neapolitan and opting for rear-facing pleats. These boast a looser shape because the extra cloth is taken from
outside of the hips and casts less of a shadow in comparison to forward-facing pleats. A classic example of the
reverse-facing pleats yet unusual due to their fabric are Cordone 1956’s vibrant velvet range. Protruding the
perfect smart-casual balance, the version in rust will elevate any outfit with its rich quality. While these create
room on the waist, the gently tapered leg that Italian brands are renowned for allows you to wear a more discreet
and supple loafer such as Baudoin & Lange taupe deerskin Sagan classic Ginkgo loafer. Although the autumn is
also a signal for you to adopt a little more texture and pattern in your trousers, there’s no harm on a clear day
sporting a pair of beige cotton trousers from Vestrucci.
