“We’ve been here since 1904 and in
fairness, not a great deal has changed other than electricity and
WiFi in certain spots, if you're lucky,” says Mason jokingly as we
sit over coffee in the showroom prior to the grand tour. A great
deal of credit is due to be given to Mason, who joined the company
in June 2015 and during his tenure has helped launch the
shoemaker’s e-commerce site and seasonal collection, both of which
have propelled Tricker’s forward. Exports are through the roof and
are mostly heading towards Asia to clad the feet of said DJs. Mason
goes on to tell me that many Northampton shoemakers have now become
pigeonholed and known for producing one style of item to great
standards. This is perhaps understandable, but in Tricker’s case
there’s no doubt that it’s best known for country footwear, for
which it’s the top of the class.
In equal company to the production
process of Northampton’s most prestigious shoemakers, within the
walls of its old-school factory, Tricker’s cut all the uppers by
hand one by one and then adherently close them using various types
of machinery that demand dexterous, skilled hands. It’s labour
intensive work and Tricker’s is well-known for its style of heavy
broguing and other intricate details. As such, the processes that
take place in the closing room are of the utmost importance to
maintain the brand’s aesthetic. The brogueing is particularly
noticeable on the Bourton brogue and Stow boot, which are the
shoemaker’s most popular two models and were originally designed in
1927. “Each of us has our own identity and for Tricker's it's all
about country footwear. If any other company tried to do this
[holding up a Bourton], it would just look like a fake Tricker’s,”
Mason adds while walking through the closing room.
Once the uppers have been assembled,
the beginnings of the shoe enters the lasting process. On the
whole, Tricker’s lasts favour a wide foot — the slim, dainty
European style wouldn't last three rounds with the quintessentially
British style, with a short, round toe. The uppers are tacked onto
the lasts and the leather is then pulled over the form before
resting upon it for a few weeks to take its shape. Following this,
the Goodyear welt is applied, which essentially gives the shoe a
guaranteed life of many, many years as the welt can always be
repaired when worn through. Goodyear welted construction has become
a bit of a buzz word in recent years to help market footwear, but
nowhere is the construction more prevalent than in Northampton. A
Goodyear welt sees a material rib joined to the insole, which then
allows the welt to be applied through the upper, which is tacked
and pulled onto the last before a period of two to three weeks of
rest. Once suitably rested, cork fills the cavity that the material
rib and upper creates, which adds further comfort and
waterproofing. The soles are then attached, trimmed and sewn
through to the welt, completing the construction. It’s something to
be admired, and is a sign of hand craftsmanship and quality and in
regards to Tricker’s adds to its chunky, rustic aesthetic. The shoe
then embarks on the final stage of the process which involves
burnishing, polishing and finishing before packaging and delivery.
Tricker’s range of country shoes are all understated in their tone,
playing off various shades of brown, which over time will develop a
beautiful patina.
There’s no denying that Tricker’s is
a global force in the shoemaking world and when it comes to sturdy
and durable ready-to-wear shoes, it tops the list. “People now want
something that has provenance, and something that is unique. Brands
like us, and dare I say it, others in the town, it's a great time
to be doing what we are doing,” Mason adds as the tour comes to a
close.
Favoured for its quality make,
timeless designs and brilliant history, Tricker’s has an obvious
and distinct aesthetic of British sensibility. A great selling
point, if you’re unaware of Tricker’s and have made it this far,
start with either the Stow or Bourton; they’re best-selling models
and will quickly become your wardrobe's best friends.
