Disappearing in the 1960s, the design made a comeback in the broad’n’bold seventies, mainly courtesy of the
iconoclastic tailoring house Nutters of Savile Row. It has been 28 years since Nutter died, but Edward Sexton’s solo
status is as potent as ever. Amongst his mastery in his latest collection is a midnight blue wool greatcoat.
Dramatic with its generous stand-and-fall collar and full wrap, ‘S-shaped’ double-breasted closure and pleated and
panelled back, it is certainly an imposing coat. However, don’t be put off by its pomp; you don’t need to wear a tie
with it; in fact, an Edward Sexton
rollneck or hidden button-down shirt that has a substantial collar, percolates the sophisticated side of rock ‘n’
roll, which is no bad thing right now.
At a time when we’re all trying to fend off the multiple waves of this virus; why not set sail on an exploration of
functional nautical style. Anchored in Naval heritage the peacoat is one of menswear’s principal essentials. Cut
shorter to give greater freedom of leg movement to sailors who first wore it, the pea coat does come in a broad
range of guises; none more so than Cromford Leather’s navy
shearling sheepskin Newman peacoat. An exotic example, it traverses very easily between smart and casual
If your wardrobe is yearning for a more traditional model of peacoat in the finest vintage cloth, then Italian
tailoring titans Rubinacci should be your port of call. Milanese-based brand Sealup who we warmly welcome into The Rake’s
e-commerce fold also offer splendid versions of the peacoat. This style of coat has also enjoyed many cinematic
outings in its time. There was Robert Redford in Three Days of Condor, 1975 and Steve McQueen “The King of
Cool” in The Sand Pebbles, 1966. Although the coat is considered functional, many of Hollywood’s most
stylish men have worn the peacoat with real pizzazz and panache. Edward Sexton’s great peacoat will lend a splash of
eccentricity that is worthy of being cast in the movies. On the theme of avant-garde outerwear, Motoluxe’s midnight blue alpaca and Mohair
peacoat is an imperious and comforting alternative to the full-length teddy bear coat.
Steeped in the history of overcoat fanfare is the old-school herringbone pattern. Worn by Clark Cable and Ronald
Reagan, two alpha males of Hollywood and in Reagan’s case, the Whitehouse, the herringbone overcoat commands a
certain masculinity. The understated texture of herringbone means that it works marvellously when worn unbuttoned
and dressed down, with more casual trousers and dare I say it black sneakers. Masters of Paris and the godfathers of
bespoke, Cifonelli have been leading the
way with timeless apparel that protrudes the very best of informal elegance. Their brown herringbone double-breasted
overcoat attests to the very best of the aforementioned virtues. As does De Petrillo’s brown herringbone Malatesta coat, if
you prefer a single-breasted design. Relaxed, versatile and utterly comfortable, De Petrillo’s sister company Gaiola have a beautiful selection of belted
coats. A special mention must go to their beige and brown wool belted coat, which manifests undeniable comfort due
to its scope of freedom of movement and it looks great paired with jeans.
Long-time proponent of the overcoat, even before he set up Alexander Kraft Monte Carlo
is Mr Kraft himself. After such a successful debut summer selection he has turned his attention to overcoats with
great aplomb. He has reinvented the classic covert coat by making it shorter, trimmer, and less boxy and stiff,
using pure beige cashmere and a navy cashmere/wool mix from the most renowned Italian mills. Another beautiful model
is a six-button double-breasted polo coat, inspired by the outerwear worn by polo players after matches in the
1930s, that comes either in a hyper luxurious double-sided navy cashmere or in real camel hair. On the subject of
the animal with the hump, Barbanera's camel
Harlock is a genius take on the double-breasted military coat.
Biblical deluges can strike at any moment. Not that you can always predict this volatility, but it’s always handy to
have a few raincoats in your arsenal. It is arguably the leading proprietors in Europe’s three main hubs of
artisanal excellence who will protect you from the wet weather scenarios with their exquisite raincoats: Anderson & Sheppard from
London, Cifonelli from Paris and Rubinacci from Naples.
The crux of buying a winter coat is warmth. One such brand that takes the technicalities of coats to new heights is
Veronese-based MooRER. Not many of the ski
slopes have opened yet in Europe, but MooRER's fully lined and water-resistant range of down-wear is built to
protect you from the follies of the outdoors, wherever you may be. What sets them apart from other technical coat
specialists is that each piece looks as though it has an element of haute-couture. Their anthracite quilted Siro
down jacket and green detachable Shinjuku coat are fine examples of this combination of technical elegance.
Every year you may have had the same idea about your stalwart winter coat. It acted as the smart top layer to your
suit on your commute. Even the sophisticated double-breasted options have so much more breadth in styling
possibilities, so now is the time to be more adventurous in the way you wear them, which might mean the addition of
a few more options into your wardrobe.
Please visit here to view the rest of
the coats onTheRake.com.