Jaunt: Where Angels Tread
This glittering jewel, this venerable old beast, is a city close to the rake’s heart. Let our local expert introduce you to the best of Los Angeles...
There aren’t enough pages in this magazine to contain the hidden joys and delights of Los Angeles. So much of the pleasure of moving through this city comes from discovery, from turning right on a road where you were supposed to turn left, and stumbling across something so singular and wonderful you forget whatever it was you were looking for in the first place. The city stretches for countless miles in every direction, divided up into neighbourhoods and communities that take on lives of their own as soon as you pass the next intersection.
Like a great many Los Angeles transplants, what drew me to the city was the sense there would always be more to discover. No matter how long you’ve been here, the city will find a way to surprise you every day. When asked for recommendations by those visiting, the first question is always, How much time do you have? The more, I always say, the better. If time isn’t on your side and you must be selective, fear not — stick to these spots and you’ll fly home happy.
WHERE TO STAY
Chateau Marmont
Sometimes you’ve just gotta play the hits. The Chateau Marmont is perhaps the most famous hotel in America, an isolated oasis off Sunset Boulevard occupied by the ghosts and lore of Hollywood. These days you come for the legend but stay for the excellent service, in-house dining options, and... well, to be able to say you’ve stayed at the Chateau.
The Beverly Hills Hotel
Drenched in classic opulence and a touch of mid-century west coast kitsch, the Beverly Hills Hotel remains synonymous with the neighbourhood from which it takes its name. Stay here and you’re in for some of the best views in town.
L’Ermitage Beverly Hills
Much of the experience of moving through Los Angeles involves trying to tap into the mysterious lifestyles of the rich and famous. If that’s your goal, accept no imitations and book a stay at L’Ermitage, a quiet sanctuary frequented by some of the most recognisable faces in Hollywood. Come for the spacious suites and comfortable bedding; stay for the excellent bar and restaurant.
Santa Monica Proper
For those looking for proximity to the beach, the Santa Monica Proper is your spot. With excellent ambience, a great rooftop bar overlooking the Pacific, and one of the best restaurants in town (more on that later), you’ll hardly want to leave once you’ve checked in.
The Beverly Wilshire
This retreat is straight out of a movie. No, literally — it’s the hotel in which they shot Pretty Woman, one of the great L.A. films. These days it’s every bit the iconic establishment it was then. Splurge on a penthouse and live like Richard Gere.
WHERE TO EAT
Musso & Frank
Old Hollywood incarnate, the legendary Musso & Frank steakhouse hasn’t changed a day since it opened in 1919. In its hundred-plus years in business it’s been L.A.’s go-to spot for dim lighting, strong drinks and the best steak in town. Get a table and watch the town’s elite celebrate closing a deal, or celebrate having closed your own.
Casa Vega
Listen, it’s hard to find a bad Mexican restaurant in L.A., but the Valley’s Casa Vega has stood the test of time. They serve up stellar chicken mole and the kind of burritos you don’t mind sitting down for — plus some of the best margaritas north of Hollywood.
Layla
Layla opened in 2024 to tremendous fanfare over its warm, homey take on Mediterranean and Jordanian cuisine. Originally it was housed in the aforementioned Santa Monica Proper, though the location suffered substantial damage in the fires (the hotel remains open). A new location is currently in the works, and the anticipation over its second opening is even higher than it was for the first.
Horses
Every year myriad trendy Instagram-friendly restaurants open in L.A. Few live up to the hype. Horses does. Friendly hint: like a great many things in the city, the best Horses has to offer isn’t on the printed menu. You’ll have to know whom to ask and what to ask for. Sure, you could Google it, but it’s a good excuse to strike up a conversation with someone at the bar.
Playita Mariscos
A humble fish taco stand in the heart of Silverlake is home to one of the best bites of food you can have in all of L.A. Keep it simple: fish tacos, battered (always battered, never grilled), flour tortillas (always flour, never corn), with a glass-bottle Coca-Cola or Topo Chico. Sit outside, watch golden hour’s glow wash over the hills, and enjoy.
WHERE TO SHOP
Anto
What started as a costuming hub for Hollywood productions is now, well, still that. But the folks behind Anto have also opened a bespoke shirting storefront where you can get custom shirts made by the same folks who have spent the years dressing names such as Tom Cruise and Harrison Ford onscreen and off.
Union
Union made their name as one of the central hubs of L.A.’s streetwear scene, but in recent years their mastermind, Chris Gibbs, has turned them into one of the most well-curated menswear stores in L.A. Brands such as Dries Van Noten, Wales Bonner, and A.Presse line the racks, and your shopping experience will be set to a killer soundtrack over the store’s sound system.
Ghiaia Cashmere
Ghiaia Cashmere’s founder Davide Baroncini’s stunning storefront is home to the most spectacular threads on the whole west coast. Lush cashmere sweaters, perfect poplin Oxfords, and overcoats that belong in a museum are among some of the brand’s specialties, and the experience of seeing the store is alone worth the drive up to Pasadena.
Wanna Buy A Watch?
L.A. is home to boutiques for every high-end watchmaker you could name. Skip all of them. Get an appointment at Wanna Buy A Watch?, a vintage timepiece dealership in West Hollywood boasting the most impressive for-sale collection in all of Los Angeles. It’s not just that the pieces in the store are rare; the selection is curated. There’s not a single bad watch in the store, a rare quality in a field in which price tag often supersedes taste.
Red Vintage Co.
There’s no better vintage shopping in America than in L.A. Like taco stands, it’s hard to name a bad vintage store, but one recent addition to the city’s scene stands out: Red Vintage Co., nestled off Melrose and Hyperion in East Hollywood. Run by a longtime veteran of the consignment world, it’s full of perfect denim, Brando-esque leather jackets, beautiful military fatigues, and mechanics’ jackets. The question won’t be what you want to walk out with but which pieces you can bear leaving behind.
WHAT TO SEE
Griffith Observatory
Every tourist in town goes to Griffith Observatory. Don’t let that dissuade you from trekking into the Hollywood Hills — it lives up to the hype, and it’s worth braving the crowds. The observatory is lovely, as is the panoramic view of the city and the spectacular hiking trails surrounding the summit.
Petersen Automotive Museum
You can hardly walk a block in L.A. without seeing some pristine vintage Porsche or the kind of modern sports car that’s beyond even the budget of a Fast & Furious movie. But there’s nowhere in town that has as many great cars in one place as the Petersen Automotive Museum, a multi-storey temple where one can worship at the altar of chrome wheels and gasoline. The main museum features hundreds of cars sure to leave you swooning, but pro tip: spend the extra cash on a ticket to the building’s archive, a massive underground garage where all of the cars not currently displayed in exhibits are stored.
The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures
Across the street from the Petersen is holy ground of a different kind: the museum of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. Cinephiles and casual weekend moviegoers alike will delight in this in-depth exploration of the industry that drives Los Angeles. If you plan your visit right, you might even be able to catch a screening in one of their stunning in-house theatres.
Dodger Stadium
Baseball is America’s pastime, and L.A. is home to the greatest stadium in the sport. Whether you’re catching a game during the season (Shohei Ohtani is perhaps the single greatest attraction in town these days), seeing a concert or taking a tour on an off-day, it’s a landmark that shouldn’t be missed.
Mulholland Drive
There’s no place, store, restaurant, hotel or bar in Los Angeles as alluring as the view of the city from Mulholland Drive. If you’ve rented a car, wait until the sun is setting and take it up through Laurel Canyon and onto the serpentine road that winds through the Hollywood Hills. Watch a pastel sky fade into night as the city’s lights come alive for miles and miles in every direction. Find an overlook, park your car, and take it all in. You don’t need to put your name on a list or know someone at the door or spend money on a ticket. The best thing Los Angeles has to offer is free.
