Air Kiss: Breguet's Iconic Pilot's Watch Makeover

If you are anything like me, you will know (and lust after) Breguet for their classic dress watches with coin-edged cases and engine-turned dials. But the brand that has given us so much, thanks to its namesake founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is also a seriously competent pilot’s watch specialist — which is still something of an insider’s secret. 

The connection between Breguet watches and aviation is deeply rooted in the brand’s history and family legacy. This relationship began in the early 20th century, driven by two key factors: technological innovation, in which Breguet developed special functions for pilots in timing flight segments; and family ties, where Louis Charles Breguet, a descendant of the company’s founder, was a pioneering aircraft manufacturer. 

Over the years, Breguet have been associated with some genuine rockstars of the aviation world. Jacqueline Auriol, France’s first female test pilot (and owner of a Type XX), was initially known for her beauty and socialising in post-war Paris. In 1948 she discovered her passion for flying, and her career took a dramatic turn after a 1949 hydroplane crash left her with severe facial injuries. She underwent multiple surgeries and emerged with renewed determination to conquer the skies. 

Auriol became a national heroine, setting multiple speed records and competing with the American pilot Jacqueline Cochran. She qualified as a test pilot in 1954 and later flew at Mach 2. Known for her calm demeanour, Auriol, who died in 2000 aged 82, once downplayed a near-disastrous landing by saying, “I’ve made a bit of a mess of the grass”. After retiring, she continued supporting female pilots and published a book, Vivre et Voler, in 1968. 

After launching a steel model, it was essential to offer a model for our customers who are used to wearing gold. 

In 1935, Breguet created their first chronographs for aviators. In the late 1940s, Breguet developed chronographs with a ‘flyback’ function, allowing pilots to quickly reset and restart the chronograph with a single push. And the relationship solidified in the 1950s with the development of the Type 20 for the French military and the Type XX for civilian use. In 1952, the French air force announced a tender for a chronograph. Breguet submitted models that were approved in 1953 as the Type 20. The first major order came in 1954, with 1,100 units for the French air force, followed by 500 units for the French Naval Aviation in 1958. 

The Type XX has become, over the decades, a key design in Breguet’s collection, known for its reliability and distinctive design. It has been produced in various materials, including steel and precious metals. The new Type XX here draws inspiration from its predecessors, specifically the rare gold timepieces from 1955. Of the original series, only three gold versions were produced. The contrasting bezel design harkens back to the second-generation Type XXs from the 1970s. Its 42mm rose-gold case is complemented by a bi-directional ceramic bezel, marking Breguet’s first use of ceramic in their collections. The dial features a sunburst blue dial with snailed counters adding depth and texture. Key features include a 15-minute counter at three o’clock, a 12-hour counter at six o’clock, running seconds at nine o’clock, a date window between four and five o’clock, luminescent Arabic numerals and hands, and interchangeable straps (you can go alligator leather or NATO-style). 

At the heart of the watch is the calibre 728 movement, developed in-house by Breguet, featuring the flyback function for instant chronograph reset and restart. Watch geeks will be pleased to know the chronograph has a vertical clutch mechanism for precise starting and a 60-hour power reserve, so you are set for the weekend. 

The Type XX Chronographe 2067 Gold represents the fourth generation of this iconic line. As Lionel a Marca, the Breguet Chief Executive, says, “After launching a steel model, it was essential to offer a model for our customers who are used to wearing gold”. 

The introduction of ceramic and the unique colour combination of rose-gold and midnight blue give this watch a distinct character, no doubt. It’s one of those watches that looks beautiful in pictures but feels even better up close and personal. Let me know how you get on.