Aperitivo Abound: A Week in Courmayeur

Whether you witnessed the recent deluge of snow that befell our neighbours across the Atlantic with envy or pity (though one hopes moments of delight can still be foraged within the current political climate, be it the perfect snowflake or Bad Bunny’s riotously joyful Super Bowl performance), the incremental rise in temperature means that skiers and snowboarders are harder pressed to find a decent dusting in Europe (Switzerland has reported an average loss of 8cm per decade since the 1960s).

Though far from the more dire consequences of the climate crisis, reveries of walking through snow-laden, roasted chestnut-scented chocolate box villages tucked into the Alps threaten to become a pleasure of the past as lower mountain ranges turn prematurely brown after yet another mild winter, the landscape peppered with canons systematically belching out artificial snow to prevent the crippling effects of reduced tourism in the region.

Those who take the endeavour seriously must go higher, taking the impact of resulting altitude shifts on the chin. Conditions grow icy and less forgiving; the cliffs buttressing the slopes get craggier, but as one ascends via cable transport, the mountains look reassuringly – and naturally – pristine. If you’re additionally looking for robust culinary and retail experiences to bookend your skiing (Après didn’t become a marketing buzzword for nothing), look no further than Courmayeur.

Don’t let the francophone name fool you, though the number of local polyglots still put us to shame. Touted as “Milan in the slopes”, Courmayeur is nestled in the Aosta Valley, at the foot of Mont Blanc (meaning one can diversify their skiing by popping over to Chamonix for the day), within comfortable driving distance from Geneva for a spot of watch-hunting, yet distant enough from the Winter Olympic furore unfolding further east, across the Dolomites. Offering a winning combination of alpine comfort, with the Italian embellishments we know and love, it should certainly be on your list.

At this time of year, Courmayeur's hotels and establishments remain tastefully strung with festive lights, and the food caters to wintry indulgence while injecting the bright, fresh flavours integral to Italian cooking. Pasta at Cadran Solaire is a particular highlight, while sister hotel L'Auberge de La Maison provides sumptuous shelter from frequent blizzards. Though the central network of streets invariably boast the luxury staples (Moncler, Prada and Dior among them), the town's established artisans maintain a strong presence, meaning your helmet may be relegated to hand luggage on the way home to make room for the richly coloured Italian linens now occupying your suitcase.