Five Gold Watches You Hate to Love

This is an article I’ve been excited to write for some time. After nearly a decade of working in the watch world on the media side, I’ve come to understand the emotions attached to different types of watches. Namely, the solid gold watch — also known as the "geezer watch" or "wide boy watch." Think Wolf of Wall Street (for those of you not from the London area these are watches worn by city boys on bonus day).

A watch says so much about us, much like a pair of well shined shoes or a nicely fitted jacket and naturally we're conscious about what type of message it sends. But as you go down the road and own new watches, try pre-owned watches and dive into vintage watches, you end up finding that there's a part of you, a very small part of you in the distance — in the shadows that wants to make a quiet statement every so often.Now i'm someone who likes dress watchers, who generally likes no branding and quiet luxury. But even I find myself daydreaming of a solid gold watch with a solid gold bracelet gold case from time to time. It's nice to whisper and not shout when it comes to clothing and style — in a very rakish way of course — but on occasions it's nice to think that maybe that very subtle pair of Edward Green loafers and that beautifully tailored Anderson & Sheppard jacket could be accompanied by something that's going to grab the attention.

In this story, I want to cover five watches that are currently available on the market from five different brands in different sizes and different gold executions but all with the same characteristic. All with that punchy, in-your-face, unapologetic wide boy stance. 

First up is the Rolex Submariner, an iconic design recognisable around the world and, in many ways, a form of currency if you ever find yourself in trouble. While I typically prefer the Oyster bracelet to be fully brushed, modern references like this one, in 40mm, feature a polished center link that takes the flashiness to another level. Personally, I like yellow gold. It has an old-school charm that accentuates and leans into what we’re celebrating today — bold, unapologetic, full-bore gold watches. Now, I can hear some of you muttering about security and safety, and I understand. In certain cities around the world, crime is unfortunately rampant, and a watch of this caliber should not be worn openly. My advice, ladies and gents, is this: wear these watches, but don’t let fear and anxiety overcome you. Roll your sleeves down, pull your jacket over it, and be conscious of where you are. Ensure it’s not visible in places where you don't feel comfortable. Of course, we're talking about a solid yellow gold Rolex Submariner, probably the most iconic watch shape and design of all time, in a form that’s hard to hide. I also can hear you saying, “Well, it’s very difficult to buy a Rolex at retail.” That’s true, but I encourage you to visit a retailer and inquire about this model. While you may not have a purchasing history with them, this isn’t the kind of watch that sells quickly. It’s the sort of item a retailer would be pleased to sell to a new client. It’s priced at $46,700 with a blue dial and bezel.

Next, we have arguably a more refined choice, and certainly a more expensive option, from Vacheron Constantin: the 222 in yellow gold. With a case size of just 37 millimeters, it boasts one of the most beautifully finished modern bracelets currently on the market. More than a reissue, it is an upgrade and redesign of an age-old classic from the world’s oldest watch manufacturer. The proportions remain faithful to the original from the 1970s, but wearability and ergonomics have been improved through a completely redesigned case and bracelet. There’s no complication here, much like the Submariner, except for the date. All in all, this watch is suited for a smaller wrist, no doubt. However, it may be more challenging to purchase at retail, as Vacheron has been gaining significant popularity in recent years. My gut tells me that you’ll likely need a track record with the brand to secure this one. It is priced at $87,000.

Up next is the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. Its bracelet is beautifully finished, but at the same time, it can be quite loud in different lighting. I’m referring specifically to the yellow gold Jumbo execution here, featuring an upgraded in-house calibre, transitioning from the 15202 to the 16202 reference, with a 39-millimeter case and the gradient yellow Petite Tapisserie dial. As a Jumbo owner myself (in stainless steel), I can personally attest to the comfort of both the bracelet and the watch overall. Of course, with AP being the pioneer of the luxury sports watch category in the early '70s, this model has significant collector appeal. Once again, this is a tricky piece to acquire at retail, but I encourage you to make an appointment and drop by your local AP house to meet the team. While Audemars Piguet may have felt daunting to some due to the immense hype since the pandemic, they are, in truth, incredibly welcoming. This watch is priced at $60,000.

Next up is another heavyweight in the watch world: the Patek Philippe reference 5712/1R, the Rose Gold Nautilus. In this case, we’ve gone for the rose gold over yellow, unlike the previous models mentioned. We’ve also opted for the complicated version rather than the time-only variation. That’s because I particularly love the Nautilus with its various asymmetric sub-dials. You’ve got running seconds between 3:00 and 5:00, a moon phase and date between 6:00 and 8:00, and a power reserve between 9:00 and 10:00. Inside, there’s a beautifully finished in-house micro-rotor movement from Patek Philippe, but the real showstopper for me is the brown dial, which complements the pink gold case so beautifully. I hear you when it comes to purchasing this model from an authorized retailer — it won’t be easy. However, in the current landscape, where the market has softened slightly and things are returning to a more normal state, I would suggest getting to know your AD and building that relationship. You might be surprised at the opportunities that arise. This watch is priced at $85,900.

To round this off, we’re returning to Rolex — because there had to be a President bracelet in this lineup! I’ve chosen the Day-Date, an iconic design both aesthetically and technically, first unveiled in 1956. It's instantly recognisable with its three semicircular links, and we’ve opted for the 40mm case size in 18-karat Everose gold. For that extra "geezer" factor, I quite fancy the mother-of-pearl dial. This watch is priced at $14,000.

Do let me know if you too have been suffering from this affliction and where you are likely to seek treatment. Until next time thank you and goodbye.