Hot Dates: A. Lange & Söhne's new Datograph
A. Lange & Söhne have mastered the chronograph watch over the past quarter of a century. To celebrate, they have released two new iterations of the technical and design marvel that is the Datograph.
A. Lange & Söhne have always been a collector’s favourite. Makers for whom, traditionally, you would have had to dig deeper to find and get into. That changed in 2020- 21, when we all spent more time at home and enthusiasts had the chance to indulge themselves. The German brand is obsessive about build quality and finishing, with a clear line-up of complicated and sporty creations — its design ethos is distinct in a crowded watch market. While the name is far from a household one, Lange & Söhne have been developing a reputation among a new audience of younger collectors. To illustrate their convictions in what they do, they arrived at the largest annual trade show, Watches and Wonders, last year with only one novelty. And a limited one at that: the Odysseus Chronograph, the first self-winding chronograph movement by Lange that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph hands to zero. It is quite possibly the only super-high-end chronograph sports watch. But more interesting than the complication is the fact that most brands come to Watches and Wonders with five or six or seven new watches, if not more. To come with one says everything you need to know about A. Lange & Söhne.
Anticipation was therefore high for the 2024 Watches and Wonders show, and what A. Lange & Söhne would bring. Combined with the increase in interest in the brand, Lange were celebrating an anniversary this year — 25 years of the Datograph. They marked it with two watches, both Datographs, but in different materials and with different complexities and limitations. Firstly, a Datograph Up/Down in white-gold with a blue dial, and a Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold ‘Lumen’.
The Datograph Up/Down with blue dial and white-gold case is limited to 125 watches, while the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen is limited to 50. It is a tour de force of a watch, combining three grand complications: a flyback chronograph with a precisely jumping minute counter, an instantaneously switching perpetual calendar with an outsize date, and a one- minute tourbillon with stop seconds. The masterpiece also reveals its radiant personality in the dark, thanks to the semi-transparent dial and the luminous coating. Additionally, the case stands out because of the particular hardness and resplendence of Lange- exclusive honey-gold.
The Datograph Up/Down rules them all. The in-house chronograph, platinum-black dial... it ticks all the boxes.
Since 1999, chronographs have been among the A. Lange & Söhne flagships. The cornerstone was the multiple-award-winning Datograph. Its unique formation combined technical finesse and a recognisable dial, with Lange outsize date and the two light-coloured subsidiary dials that were moved downwards slightly, forming an equilateral triangle. They were technical marvels, with finishing to rival any watch from any maker.
The brand has consistently expanded its expertise in the field of chronograph construction, and, to date, has developed a total of 13 trailblazing models with a chronograph function. Notable launches have included the Double Split, in 2004, a chronograph equipped with a double rattrapante, a first in the history of precision watchmaking; and the Triple Split, from 2018.
The manually wound calibre L951.1 — consisting of 405 parts, assembled twice, and finished in typical Lange fashion — powers the Datograph. Since its re-establishment in 1994, the manufacture has set its own benchmarks, with currently more than 70 movements developed and crafted in-house. From the start, in 1999, the Datograph was a particularly lucid expression of their aspirations.
I had the chance to chat with the A. Lange & Söhne Chief Executive, Wilhelm Schmid, about the Datograph 25 years on. “For me, it’s pretty clear,” he said. “The Datograph Up/Down is the one watch that rules them all. If I personally had to decide on one watch — thankfully I never have to, but if I had to — it would be the Datograph. The outsized date, in-house chronograph, 60 hours of power reserve, platinum-black dial — yeah, it ticks all the boxes for me.”
Schmid added: “I joined the business in December 2010, and six weeks later we launched the Datograph Up/Down. While I was a passenger back then, not the driver, it has a special place in my heart.” On the Honeygold Lumen, he said: “It is quite possibly the ultimate Datograph from a complexity perspective and from a materials perspective. I do believe it is everything collectors love from us in one watch, from the Lumen dial to the honey-gold case and perpetual tourbillon chronograph.
“Honey-gold is a beast to work, it’s very hard on the tools, because it’s like platinum. It’s a very tough material.”
Anthony de Haas, Lange’s Director of Product Development, puts it nicely when he says that, “with its combination of functionality and design, perfectly balanced down to the smallest details, the Datograph holds its ground as a reference for a consummate chronograph, even 25 years after its debut. When looking at the dial, and in particular through the sapphire-crystal caseback that showcases the micro-mechanical orchestration of the significant sequences and functions in all their beauty, it becomes apparent why the Datograph is not only the dream come true of many watch aficionados but also of watchmakers.”
If you haven’t seen one in the metal, it’s a must. As well as the Datograph anniversary, Lange are celebrating 30 years since they were relaunched. Watch this space.
