Kit Blake: Trousers to Watch
Once overlooked as a stuffy niche of the old aristocracy, the styling possibilities of tartan have been flung wide-open again. And in the realms of tailoring Kit Blake are the architects.
Out of all the mainstream cloth patterns utilized in the vernacular of menswear, tartan is in its own orbit of dynamism. Lamentably for romantics, the origins of tartans do not stem from being representative of ancient and noble clans. By default, of large-scale commercial weavers assigning pattern names from Highland clans and towns, the aristocracy picked it up and ran with the tide. It later became synonymous with criteria – some patterns are known as 'restricted' meaning they are reserved for some chiefs or the Royal Family. Coupled with its gallant measure of texture and colour and its affiliation with rules, it is why the pattern has been so freely embraced by a range of subcultures to empower identification.
Self-proclaimed rebel Vivienne Westwood used the cloth pattern to inspire the punk movement and stick two fingers up at the establishment, which proved to be success on both counts. Her exploits have left an important legacy for nonconformists, but in the midst of all the craziness, the tailoring world has reaped dividends from her revolutionary spirit. Later echoed by Alexander McQueen, their eccentric incorporations of tartan showed the power of its versatility. On a slightly more even latitude of convention, classic-cut trouser specialist, Kit Blake have now entered the fray. Co-founders Chris Modoo and Richard Wheat might not be outward political revolutionaries but they’ve been on a mission – a successful one to revolutionise the way men wear suits.
Their latest pursuit is arguably their most audacious yet, but as Chris Modoo has shown with his tartan styling methods, it’s a wonderfully creative endeavour that perfectly reflects the moment. Rendered in a 11oz worsted wool from Dugdale Bros & Co in England (as all the best tartans are), the brand’s striking green Brown Watch tartan trousers in the Aleksandar style are a comfortable weight to be worn year-round. A chunky knit and black-tie are both suitable styling options. Conjuring up a look that is a rondure of risk with the aim of it being unique, emotive and stylish is no mean feat. Matching the trousers with a denim dress shirt, brown blazer and black bow tie, and brown suede dress shoes, Modoo has shown the fun, sophisticated yet unstuffy side to donning tartan. However, the imaginative styling would fall short if the trousers were not impeccably tailored with high-end sartorial elements. Boasting a higher-rise, razor-sharp double-pleats and side adjusters the Aleksandar model is their most classic trouser, one that acts as a dependable fulcrum to any outfit.
For a long time now, tartan has been overlooked as a stuffy niche of the old aristocracy. Despite it featuring all of the traditional trimmings, their seductively vibrant blue Plum Watch tartan trouser, doesn’t in any way subscribe to the aforementioned notion. It is a refreshing invention, one that can be worn with tailoring or more casual attire with equal aplomb, and like the trousers themselves be daring with what you pair them with.
Elsewhere, the pink wool broken houndstooth pleated Aleksandar trousers will add texture and some unexpected colour to your autumn wardrobe, whilst the Oxford grey worsted flannel trousers in the firm’s favourite "salt & pepper" design are about as versatile a trouser as you will see.
We’re not expecting to see you fully clad in tartan, but Kit Blake are impressing the tailoring scene with their au courant inventions; this time marvellously reminding us of the potency of tartan's adaptability and character which are two optimal traits in the domain of sartorial menswear.
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