Milan Men’s Fashion Week: What to Expect

It's a whirlwind global tour hitting the runways of London, Florence, Milan, and Paris over the next few weeks — a non-stop spectacle where luxury houses reinforce their legendary status, emerging talents stake their claim, and masculine style itself gets redefined.

Things started in the British capital (June 7-11): The London shows were surrounded by an edgy, experiential atmosphere of parties, exhibits, and talks channelling the breadth of UK menswear. They kicked off with cult favourite Craig Green's unofficially intimate studio show on Wednesday morning — his first in London since Spring 2022.

Then the action moved to Florence for the Pitti Uomo 106 trade show (June 11-14). This season's major draw is French fashion disruptor Marine Serre presenting her first standalone menswear collection, and British tailoring titan Paul Smith making a long-awaited Pitti comeback after a 30-year absence as a guest designer.

But all roads lead to Milan (June 14-18), the world's menswear capital and epicentre for Italian luxury and style. The week will open with Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino presenting the brand's first menswear show since SS23 and the tailoring powerhouse Canali marking its 90th anniversary the same day with a celebratory event in Piazza del Duomo.

The next generation will also get their moment — on June 15th, cult Italian label MSGM will recreate the spirit of its 2009 menswear debut for its 15th birthday with a co-ed show, as founder Massimo Giorgetti aims to recreate the energy of the brand's first show. MSGM will celebrate alongside key events like Fendi and Emporio Armani shows, plus presentations from Brioni, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Woolrich Black Label by Todd Snyder, and British David Koma's menswear debut.

A notable trend this season is the influx of British designers making the move from London to Milan Men's: as well as David Koma, on the 16th you'll see Martine Rose holding her Milan runway premiere at 5pm, followed by the highly expected Simon Holloway's collection for Dunhill. The day will also feature the return of rising star Luca Magliano, following on from his guest slot at Pitti Uomo in January, Prada's show and Matteo Tamburini's first men's collection for Tod's.

Easily the week's biggest ticket will be Gucci on June 17th, as Sabato De Sarno follows up his critically-acclaimed debut with his sophomore menswear vision — a chance to see his refined, minimalist aesthetic evolve before his womenswear unveiling in September. The iconic Italian heavyweights will deliver their signature spectacles — Armani's seafaring summer tailoring, Dolce & Gabbana's dizzying glamour, and Fendi, Tod's and Brunello Cucinelli with their artisanal luxury bona fides. Elsewhere, Zegna's summer 2024 fashion show, L'Oasi di Lino, will encompass the envision of Creative Director Alessandro Sartori, and Corneliani will epitomise day-to-night sophistication.

The season culminates in Paris (June 18-23) with must-sees like Dries Van Noten's final farewell show before retiring his label, and the latest from heavyweights like Dior, Loewe and Rick Owens. On June 18th at 8:30 pm, Pharrell Williams will show his third menswear collection for Louis Vuitton, following his Western-themed AW24 outing. His last June show, which marked his debut, saw him shutting down central Paris' Pont Neuf for the extravaganza, while in January he erected an enormous box in Paris' Jardin d'Acclimatation, complete with a flurry of faux-snow for the dramatic finale. Some notable absences in Paris include Valentino, as newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele delays his debut for the house until September, and Givenchy is amid searches to replace its former creative director Matthew Williams.