The Harrington Jacket: An Iron of Culture

On April 13th, 1986, Ronald Reagan drove a golf cart on the perimeter of the helicopter landing strip at Camp David, the President of the United States' country residence in the hills of Catoctin Mountain Park, Maryland. Staffed by US Marine personnel, the Marine One, a heavily protected helicopter that transports the President from the White House, landed in front of Reagan that day. The 40th President of the United States, wearing a navy windbreaker embroidered with his name on the right chest, strolled in his trademark dark beige flat-fronted mid-waisted trousers, similar to the New Caine design by Kit Blake, and shook hands with Yasuhiro Nakasone, the Prime Minister of Japan. 

Reagan and Nakasone established a strong rapport, and upon arriving at Aspen Lodge, the President’s cabin, they exchanged gifts. When Nakasone opened his first gift, it was the same windbreaker as Reagan's, but with Nakasone's name embroidered on the chest. When Reagan opened his wrapping paper, he discovered a miniature television inside. Walking along a winding footpath through the woods, they arrived at Laurel Lodge, which is primarily used for diplomatic meetings. Nancy Reagan, who was elegant and, as was her husband, a former Hollywood movie star, greeted them with a smile and said to Nakasone, "I like your jacket." 

Commissioned by the 34th President of the United States, Dwight D. Eisenhower, in 1954, the one-hole golf course at Camp David has since been updated with a driving range. Nakasone, like Reagan, was an avid sportsman who enjoyed skiing, swimming and golf, although it's unclear whether they played that day. As I write this, I learn that Donald Trump has secured re-election as the 47th president; it’s unlikely he will be practicing his swing at Camp David, as in his previous term it took him five months to visit. Owning a plethora of exclusive golf courses around the world — and there’s his beloved Mar-a-Lago — it is likely Camp David will continue to toil at the bottom of his chosen retreats. 

Now, why are we opening the narrative of this article with the windbreaker garment, when the sole subject of the piece is the Harrington jacket? The origins of the Harrington jacket, like many other timeless menswear designs or garments, like the Bengal stripe shirt and the Blazer, remain concealed to interpretation or argument. And in addition, we can classify the Harrington jacket's construction as a blouson, golf jacket, swing top, drizzler and the aforementioned windbreaker. 

First coined in 1838 by future prime minister Benjamin Disraeli, “Workshop of the World” was initially a term referencing Britain’s manufacturing and industrial capacity. Textile factories were at the forefront of burgeoning British trade, none more so than in Manchester, which earned the moniker "Cottonopolis". A city once peppered with dank red-brick factory buildings, blackened by coal vapours, and with unremitting rainfall, it was at one time home to 108 cotton mills. At its height, 50,000 Mancunians would graft there, penetrating the air with the sounds of beating looms, crunching machines and the constant shriek of the steam boilers. 

In the sphere of clothing manufacturers specifically focusing on men's outerwear, three revered labels come to mind: Baracuta, Grenfell and, last but not least, Private White V.C. Located in a small factory on Chorlton Street, close to Manchester Piccadilly Station, brothers John and Isaac Miller crafted rainwear in the early 1900s, notably serving as suppliers for British heritage brands like Aquascutum, M&S and Burberry. Incidentally, today Burberry is arguably the most well-known designer of Harrington jackets in wider society. 

However, back to Baracuta — the brothers were driven by ambition to be more than mere suppliers. Boasting Royal Birkdale Golf Club, Royal Liverpool Golf Club (Hoylake) and Royal Lytham & St Annes Golf Club, all historic courses to have hosted the British Open, Lancashire has been the pinnacle county for elite players to compete for that illustrious major. Therefore, the brothers were geographically blessed to observe fallible clothing components as a result of inclement weather. They saw a gap in the market for a short, lightweight, waist-length waterproof zipper jacket to be worn on the course. The unmistakable umbrella back yoke effectively drained the fabric from downpours, and its slim yet breathable construction allowed for freedom of moment, especially when swinging and striking the exceedingly heavy clubs and balls of those days. Thus, in 1937 the Baracuta G9 jacket was born; the company referred to it by its designated codename, G9, the G indicating “Golf”. 

Sir Winston Churchill famously called Simon Fraser, 15th Lord Lovat and 24th Chief of Clan Fraser, "The handsomest man who ever slit a throat." In fact, he was an immaculately dressed war hero, complete with a moustache. A year prior to the outbreak of war, he granted the rights to Baracuta to adorn the G9 jacket inner lining with the centuries-old Fraser family tartan, a feature that promptly earned prestige following the Lord Lovat’s steadfast heroics in the war. 

Individuals wear an array of important family tartans, usually in the form of kilts, to commemorate the fighting style of their ancestors and as a symbol of Scottish national identity. Worn with flair and jocularity at the baronial houses of Highland Scottish clans all year round, in January the Caledonian Club in London rolls out its red carpet for guests to celebrate Burns Night, another ceremonial setting for Scottish society to pay homage to their country's history in full Highland regalia, with tartan at its centre. 

However, on its own, and to a mighty extent, the G9 jacket and its Fraser family tartan interior have transcended popular culture with previously unthinkable denizens. James Dean gave it a rascally charm in Rebel Without a Cause (1955), whilst Elvis Presley in King Creole (1958) extended its cultural liberty. Finally, in the ‘60s soap opera Peyton Place, American heartthrob Ryan O’Neal sported the jacket in the character of Rodney Harrington, hence its Harrington jacket appellation. 

On film, and in real life, Steve McQueen embodied the true essence of stylistic masculinity, as when he wore the Baracuta G9 in cotton navy in The Thomas Crown Affair (1968). However, it was not until the mid-sixties that the Baracuta G9 Harrington jacket infiltrated the wardrobes of societal fringe subcultures. This was the original post-Mod skinhead era, which, along with Punks and British rockers, embraced the G9 jackets, thereby creating an exceptional legacy for both the Baracuta G9 jacket and the cultural splinters of that time. 

But let's go back to the origins of the Harrington jacket. In 1922, Walter Haythornthwaite, an avid outdoorsman, met Sir Wilfred Grenfell, a doctor, in a weaving mill in Burnley, 50 minutes north of Manchester. During the meeting, Grenfell inspired Haythornthwaite with his statement, "You could not keep a statue warm by putting a fur coat on it; clothing must be windproof, but must breathe. "In 1923, after a year of development, Haythornthwaite presented a woven gabardine of 600-thread-count Egyptian cotton to the renowned doctor. 

Made from this cloth, the new jacket kept out the rain and sweat. Arnold Palmer, a golfing aesthete, notably popularised Grenfell's jacket, originally known as the Golfer. Today, the Grenfell Harrington jacket collection, now crafted in London, featuring ribbed hem, collar and cuffs, beautifully blends practicality and elegance, especially if you opt for its Grenfell House Check lining version. 

Returning to Manchester, and specifically to historic Cottenham House, today it is the last remaining clothing factory in Manchester that is still in operation, and is home to one of the finest names in menswear, Private White V.C. The iconic British brand has crafted a Harrington jacket, an interpretation of the classic blouson style, in Ventile®, the world's most famous cotton. Featuring Raglan sleeves, a centre front copper zip fastening and two external welt pockets, the Ventile® Harrington version is the ultimate creation for evading inclement weather in comfort. 

Elsewhere, the refined Italian outerwear makers Valstar and Alfredo Rifugio masterfully stamped their own identity onto the Harrington jacket. Instead of using cotton, Valstar and Alfredo Rifugio have experimented with luxurious suede, and Rifugio's lightweight shearling design, which features soft ribbed cotton trims, front patch pockets with flaps and knitted cashmere cuffs, is a testament to the elegance of Italian craftsmanship. But if you're based in London and looking for something a little closer to home, the quintessential British luxury brand Dunhill offers stylish lightweight designs. 

Whether you're Gregory Peck strolling around Venice at the 1963 festival, wearing a beige open-zipped Harrington jacket with a simple white shirt underneath and gradient lens aviator sunglasses, or you're at the Augusta National Golf Course before you secure the illustrious green jacket, the Harrington jacket has arguably reached a wider variety of aficionados than any other design, and it will continue to expand its already rich history.

Photo credits: Getty Images