The Olympian Spirits
What’s an instruction that can be heard on a long-distance run and a pub crawl? Pace yourself. This selection of wines will help you use your weekly alcohol units wisely...
Irecently read a wonderful book called The Silence of the Girls, by Pat Barker. It is a reimagining of Homer’s Iliad, told from the perspective of the Trojan women captured by the Greeks. It is the era of Achilles, paranoia for the gods is at its highest, and crucially, through all the gory battles, hydration comes in the form of watered-down wine. “Whenever a man is tired, wine is a great restorer of strength,” says Homer. The Iliad was written some time between 725 and 675 BC, according to the British Museum. The birth of the Olympic Games is thought to have been around 776 BC — and do you know what they were drinking back then? Watered-down wine. Plus, they were competing in the nude. Wine and nudity — it almost makes it sound enjoyable.
The longevity of the Olympics is quite hard to grasp. It is believed the Games were held every four years, without interruption, until the end of the fourth century AD — a period of more than 1,000 years! The ‘without interruption’ is crucial. Heralds were sent out months in advance to announce the dates of the Olympic Games as well as a truce. Judith Swaddling, a senior curator in the department of Greece and Rome at the British Museum, writes: “It does not seem to be the case that the Games were established in order to bring about national peace, though according to legend the Games were actually re-instituted by King Iphitos of Elis on the advice of the Delphic Oracle. He had asked how to resolve the wars and pestilence which were ravaging the country. This idea may, however, have been a relatively late invention.” Wouldn’t it be a blissful idea if the Olympics still had the power to bring about international peace?
Lately I’ve been reading about many athletes, including the Olympic champion swimmer Adam Peaty, who have chosen the teetotal lifestyle (Michael Phelps also went teetotal after a rocky patch with alcohol.) I respect their decision, especially when it comes off the back of a difficult relationship with alcohol. We have to remember to be grateful for every hangover that reminds us that our body is not used to excess!
While I may jest about how the Greeks were drinking watered-down wine throughout many gory battles and during their athletic exploits, wouldn’t it be fascinating to know what the ABV was of the wine in 776BC? Global warming can cause havoc with ABV. A hot summer means extra ripeness and therefore extra sugar, which in turn means higher alcohol levels. My answer to this? Drink less, drink better! It’s a great solution, a win-win. Here are some of the wines I can recommend when it comes to using your units wisely:
Viñedo Chadwick 2014
This is 100% cabernet sauvignon from the Maipo Valley in Chile, and its ABV is 14%. It is unlike me to include three wines from the same producer in this column, but I am such a huge fan that I’m afraid I’ve been left with no choice. The mouth-feel of this wine is nothing short of extraordinary — a wine to sit with for a while, to take your time with. It will certainly make you work for it. There is a slight herbaceous edge on the finish that is so refreshing, along with the signature indulgent cassis-style caress of cabernet sauvignon. The nose on this sort of indulgent ripeness will forever — somewhat strangely but enjoyably — remind me of a Damien Hirst exhibition.
£368 | Stockists: Bordeaux Index and Farr Vintners
Las Pizarras Chardonnay 2021
This is 100 per cent chardonnay from Aconcagua Costa in Chile. It is 12.5 per cent. It is no secret that I am addicted to chardonnay, but you won’t find me drinking just any chardonnay, for why waste those precious units on something ordinary? This is precision. It is the true meaning of a wine with a ‘sense of place’. There is a beautiful salinity on the nose, then lemon zest, which morphs into a sweeter lemon curd and a sprinkling of icing sugar. It somehow crosses the boundary of
freshness while being incredibly supple. A delight.
£71 | Stockists: Berry Bros. & Rudd, and Farr Vintners
Seña 2020
This is 57% cabernet sauvignon, 21% carmenere, 12% Malbec, 7% petit verdot, and 3% cabernet franc from the Aconcagua Valley in Chile. It is 13.5%. The three wines from Chile are all produced by the Chadwick family, who ultimately put Chile on the winemaking map. Eduardo Chadwick organised a very important tasting with Robert Mondavi in 2004, and Viñedo Chadwick 2000 came in first place followed by Seña 2001 in second. For context, Château Lafite Rothschild 2000 was third. If you can find back-vintages, please snap them up, as they are nothing short of astonishing and worthy of a place in even the most prestigious cellars. Seña 2020 is just a more attainable wine to tell you about. You know when you make a world-class jus? With the perfect balance all because of the addition of a bay leaf? This is what this wine reminds me of. It is so well balanced, and when it becomes too rich, there is some freshness. The tannins are well-integrated; a pleasure to drink.
£144 | Stockists: Berry Bros. & Rudd, Harrods, Justerini & Brooks, Tannin & Oak
Kayafas, Thymiopoulos, Naoussa 2018
This is 100% xinomavro from Trilofos in Greece. It is 13.5%. Perhaps the most suitable recommendation for an Olympic issue of the magazine, this wine is one of many gems from the Wine Society. The vines have an average age of more than 40 years, which means they produce lower quantities with higher concentration and often drinkability, too. This wine has been in second-use French oak to develop subtle nutmeg flavours beyond the fruity concentration of the beautiful xinomavro grape.
£59 | Stockists: The Wine Society