Breguet Looks Back and Forth in its 250th Anniversary Year

Everybody who loves watches wants the very best for Breguet. It's no secret that in the last few years, the Swatch Group have not been honouring the illustrious brand that had previously given us the level of attention and love that we collectors believe it deserved. As a result, it has been a buyer's market, with some of the most extraordinary vintage watches in history made available for a fraction of what they should be on the secondary market, and ever increasing primary prices, while innovation and fresh design has been languishing on the sidelines. But that may have all just changed, full stop.

In celebration of its 250th anniversary in 2025, Breguet unveiled the Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch in Paris, the city where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his iconic workshop and developed his revolutionary horological innovations. With new leadership, and what feels like new energy, Breguet has come out swinging on this anniversary year.

This commemorative timepiece draws inspiration from the groundbreaking Souscription pocket watch, first marketed in 1797 through an innovative advertising pamphlet. The original watch embodied A-L Breguet's vision to democratise fine watchmaking with a reliable timepiece, featuring a simplified architecture, clean white enamel dial, and single-hand display that maintained exceptional legibility. The commercial method was equally innovative — customers secured their order by paying a quarter of the price upfront, allowing the workshop to purchase necessary materials for production. This approach marked the beginning of series production in watchmaking, resulting in approximately 700 timepieces over three decades.

The Souscription 2025 faithfully captures the spirit of these historical timepieces while incorporating contemporary expertise. Its luminous white grand feu enamel dial features the single, flame-blued steel Breguet hand, meticulously curved by hand. The dial displays the signature-inclined Breguet Arabic numerals and a circular "chemin de fer" (railroad track) with specific sector markings for precise time readings. All numerals and minute markers are rendered in black petit feu enamel, with the Breguet signature positioned at 12 o'clock. In certain lighting conditions, the "Souscription" inscription, unique serial number and secret signature become visible between the dial center and 6 o'clock position. This hidden signature, created using a diamond-point pantograph as in Breguet's era, served as an authentication method against counterfeiting. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with a "chevé" profile—another Breguet innovation. This thinner, less domed crystal features a relatively flat surface that gently curves at the edges to blend seamlessly with the case, a design element that has since become standard in contemporary watchmaking.

For this anniversary piece, Breguet introduces its proprietary alloy: Breguet gold. This blond precious metal combines gold, silver, copper, and palladium, creating a warm, subtly pink hue inspired by the gold used by 18th-century watchmakers. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, this 18K alloy offers superior resistance to discoloration and enhanced durability, embodying the House's commitment to excellence and innovation.

The 40mm case stands 10.8mm high with a newly designed architecture. Traditional Breguet fluting gives way to a delicately satin-brushed case middle, honouring the original timepieces' style. The curved lugs provide enhanced ergonomics and a more fluid appearance than conventional straight lugs. The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the new VS00 calibre, decorated with the newly unveiled "Quai de l'Horloge" guilloché pattern. This design draws inspiration from the distinctive curves of Paris's Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis, creating a harmonious rhythm that celebrates guilloché as a living art form perfected by Breguet.

The movement's structure pays homage to the original Souscription watches. Operating at 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), it delivers an impressive four-day power reserve from a single barrel. The balance spring features a Breguet overcoil and is crafted from NivachronTM, a non-magnetic titanium-based alloy that enhances resistance to temperature variations, magnetic fields, and shocks. The meticulously shot-blasted plate and bridges, adorned with blued steel screws and rubies, showcase a decoration directly inspired by A-L Breguet's movements. At the centre, the ratchet wheel bears an engraved inscription reproducing the founder's explanation of the Souscription movement from his original advertising brochure.

The anniversary presentation box represents another tribute to tradition. Inspired by the red Moroccan leather cases used by Breguet, this lightly grained calf leather box features gold-hot embossing with "BREGUET 250 YEARS" and the watch's individual serial number. Its rounded silhouette and simple pushbutton opening mechanism reflect the aesthetic principles of Breguet's era, while the Breguet gold-plated hinge adds a luxurious touch. Inside, refined blue fabrics cradle the watch in a vertical position, evoking pocket watch traditions.

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is available at a retail price of £45,700.00. While in previous years, very few would have been discussing the breakdown online, when this watch launched in late April, Breguet was seemingly the only brand anyone was talking about. Some will push back on the price, others, the size at 40 mm. To me, this is innovation.

It's the innovation that Breguet has needed, and while somewhat divisive to the purists, it sets a tone of welcoming new collectors to the brand with a less formal design (no coin edge case). Ultimately, Breguet should be at the very top of the tree when it comes to watchmaking, and when considering buying a dress watch, it really should be top three. I do hope that this anniversary watch at the start of this big year for the brand is indication of the positive moves and innovation we are hoping to see in the coming months.