In Praise of Proportion: Blancpain's Enduring Elegance

Readers of The Rake know better than to consider watches a mere styling accoutrement, and the dress watch serves a unique function. The most compelling examples express a particular philosophy: the watch should suit the wearer’s wrist, not dominate it. Blancpain’s latest additions to their Villeret collection – "The Thinnest Argument" – are a masterclass in the pursuit of refinement, reflecting a broader appreciation for classical proportions that resonates with contemporary collectors.

“The Villeret has always expressed its character through restraint rather than display,” said Marc A. Hayek, president and CEO of Blancpain. The Villeret Ultraplate does just that.

An ultra-thin automatic movement now offered in 38 and 40mm, the “heart” of the collection showcases the brand’s acute focus on tailoring the size to its owner, as if to “disappear once worn”. It is a choice as personal as the bespoke jacket it is designed to discreetly wink from underneath.

The collection includes Blancpain’s first salmon-coloured dial, a sunburst execution whose tones shift between copper, rose and gold throughout the day. Set within a stainless-steel case and paired with black-treated gold numerals and an anthracite nubuck strap, it infuses warmth in a collection more commonly associated with silver and opaline dials. Those seeking more exclusive models can find the two-tone variant only in Blancpain boutiques, which combines stainless steel with solid yellow-gold numerals, a gold-toned opaline dial and a nubuck alligator strap – a subtle exercise in contrast that rewards a closer, in-person inspection.

Beyond new colours and dimensions, the Villeret continues to evolve in thoughtful ways. The redesign, which was introduced across the collection last autumn, now extends to several new features, including the 38mm case; 18ct gold numerals; the Jehan-Jacques Blancpain monogram at twelve o'clock; slender Super-LumiNova® hands that are clearly legible in the dark, and a larger date aperture. Blancpain's calibre 1150 beats within, an ultra-thin automatic movement offering a generous 100-hour power reserve; the kind of finishing expected from one of Switzerland's oldest maisons.

Alongside the Ultraplate, Blancpain has also introduced two Villeret Phases de Lune models in a compact 29.2mm case, featuring the moon phase that has become synonymous with the brand. Here, its familiar smiling lunar display appears beneath a diamond-set bezel, combining technical pedigree with a distinctly romantic sensibility.

Blancpain has been making the argument for vintage dimensions and more restrained designs for over four decades, in spite of recent aesthetic shifts. The Villeret (though only bestowed with its name in 2002) traces its lineage back to the early mechanical revival of the 1980s, when the maison championed elegant designs in modestly sized cases while much of the industry pivoted to quartz.

The result is a collection that remains remarkably consistent in its convictions. The latest Villeret models do not seek attention through novelty or excess, instead offering a reminder that proportion, discretion and craftsmanship remain among the most enduring qualities in watchmaking.

Discover the evolution of Blancpain's Villeret collection here.