Introducing the Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor & Classic Origin with Breguet Numerals for Revolution & The Rake
Nudging a year on from our last collaboration with the Master of Neo-Classical Watchmaking, Laurent Ferrier, Revolution & The Rake are extremely proud to present updated watch editions of the Classic Micro-Rotor & Classic Origin.
My immense passion for Laurent Ferrier and his watches resulted in our first collaboration launched last year. The inspiration for this project was a timepiece created by the legendary auctioneer Aurel Bacs, together with his friend, the mythical Auro Montanari, also known by his nom de plume John Goldberger. Their design was for a watch with dial inspired by the “sector” or scientific dial chronometers from the 1930s and ’40s. Our watch was distinguished from the Bac and Montanari model by a seconds indicator, different hands, different crown, a different two-tone dial configuration, a frosted finish manual wind movement from the Classic Origin and a sporty Milanese bracelet. When the rendering for what I felt was an incredibly charming watch was finished, I posted it on my personal Instagram account. To my surprise and gratitude, I received so many DMs that the 12 pieces of the limited edition were spoken for in under 30 minutes. One of these watches which had a retail price of CHF 28,800 went to auction at Christie’s in May 2021. The watch hammered at CHF 40,000; the final price would have been CHF 50,000 including 25 percent buyer’s premium, which meant it had increased in value by more than 70 percent in a few months. Our 2020 limited edition Classic Origin which had a retail price of CHF 28,800 went to auction at Christie’s in May 2021 and hammered at CHF 40,000; the final price would have been CHF 50,000 including 25 percent buyer’s premium, which meant it had increased in value by more than 70 percent in a few months.
For our follow-up to this project, this year, we will launch two steel cased models, both featuring dials inspired by the same golden era of the 1930s and ’40s. This time, we wanted to feature what we consider to be one of the most beautiful types of indexes ever created, applied Breguet numerals. These stylized Arabic numerals have a charming Latin flair and are featured in the most collectible examples of watches, such as Patek Philippe’s references 96 and 530 time-only watches and the famous ref. 1463 or “Tasti Tondi” chronographs. Indeed, the presence of Breguet numerals and a steel case on a Tasti Tondi increase the value of that watch by more than 300 percent.
Says Laurent Ferrier, “The idea was to remain in the theme of a sector-style dial but to add to it these elements of applied Breguet numerals which, to me, results in one of the beautiful dials we’ve worked on. The three numerals, 12, 3 and 9, are all created from wire erosion on white gold before they are perfectly decorated then treated with a ruthenium coating. These are delicately applied to a dial that features a stunning sunray effect. The lines radiating from the middle of the dial create a stunning, energetic luminous effect, which is again contrasted by the dark black sector ring. This ring features an all-new original design inspired by the ring found in our project last year, but with much bolder and far longer attenuated arms that act as markers for the other indexes. This is a style of dial I find very charming but is perhaps a touch more exuberant than usual for us. But this is precisely why it works as a limited edition between Laurent Ferrier and Revolution. To make the watches even more distinct, both the manual wind and micro-rotor movements feature a frosted yellow gold finish with contrasting high-polished bevels. This is the first time we’ve ever used this finish on a micro-rotor movement and I think the result is sublime.”
Ferrier had a very distinct perception of what style of watchmaking he loved. He states, “When I was 16 years old, I completed my watchmaking studies and presented my Montre d’École in 1968, which was an attempt to create a very elegant and pure expression of watchmaking. The next 40 years was a period where I learned and defined the codes of my vision for watchmaking. I came to love apparent simplicity or purity in design combined with extremely ambitious technical innovation. What I love is the dynamic tension between a watch that is wonderfully restrained and charmingly understated when you look at it from the front, but as you examine the details and then turn it over to look at the movement, you suddenly become aware of how complex it is.” Ferrier feels that the limited editions he has created with Revolution and The Rake perfectly champion these values, and I can’t agree more.
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The Rake
Says Christian Ferrier, “Breguet’s idea was brilliant. He implemented the escapement in 20 pocket watches. But the escapement was extremely difficult to manufacture with the tools of his era as the tolerances had to be perfect for the wheels to have no play but be able to move freely. As we discussed the natural escapement in collaboration with La Fabrique du Temps, they came up with the idea of using advanced technology and materials, specifically nickel phosphorus, for the escape wheels. These are galvanically grown and have tolerances that are incredibly precise, down to the micron. For the lever, they suggested we use silicon and because of these materials, we were able to reduce to a minimum the use of lubrication.”
Says Laurent Ferrier, “I think it is wonderful that we were able to implement the famous natural escapement. I must say we were very impressed with the results of this escapement. Like the tourbillon, it is challenging to install and regulate but once this is correctly done, it has proven to be incredibly stable. It was also important to me that we expressed the same movement design language in the micro-rotor, and so you see that on the angle of the upper bridge, we created a sharp internal angle just to show collectors who appreciate these details that this movement is hand finished to the same standard as our tourbillon.”
The Voutilainen Vingt 8 Setsu-Getsu-Ka Unique New Art Piece by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen with a special dial made by legendary Japanese lacquer artist Tatsuo Kitamura Voutilainen’s in house designed movement here shows in plain sight, his use of a free sprung balance (wheel diameter 13.60mm) with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18'000 vph; coupled with two escapement wheels F.P. Journe introduced the Chronométre Optimum in 2012, with a patented Bi-Axial High-Performance Escapement F.P. Journe Chronométre Optimum, 2012 Illustrating the bi-axial high-performance escapement in Journe's Chronomètre Optimum, in which the two escape wheels are driven by a second pair of wheels at the bottom
Upon launch, the Classic Micro-Rotor became one of the most coveted timepieces around and struck a chord with the world’s leading watch experts. So much so that Aurel Bacs, senior consultant at Phillips Watches and the world’s leading watch auctioneer; Auro Montanari, the legendary Italian collector; Ben Clymer, the brilliant founder of Hodinkee; and Eric Ku, the owner of vintage Rolex forums, and a vintage watch guru and Rolex expert, all ended up creating unique executions of this watch for themselves. Today, apart from Laurent Ferrier, only a handful of brands create watches featuring Breguet’s famous natural escapement. Some of these watches, in particular the creations of Kari Voutilainen and F.P. Journe, have wait lists of several years or longer.
Tech SpecsThe 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Revolution & The RakeRef: LCF036.AC.JN3 The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Revolution & The RakeMovement: Manual winding calibre LF116.01; Swiss lever escapement; balance screw; indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o´clock; movement diameter 31.60 (14’’’); thickness: 4.35 mm; frequency: 3Hz (21’600/H); power reserve: 80 hours; gold-toned “microbillé” or shot-blasting finish
Case & dial: Stainless steel; water resistant to 30 m; “ball-shaped’’ crown in stainless steel; case diameter: 40 mm; case thickness: 10.70 mm; back bezel engraved “Revolution & The Rake” and numbered out of 12; gold-toned dial with a sunburst finish on the centre and opaline finish behind the minute track; slate grey hour circle, second markers and logo decals; indexes: white gold Breguet appliques ruthenium treated; small seconds display gold-toned opaline at 6 o´clock
Strap: Light brown Barbialla calf leather with Alcantara lining; additional steel Milanese bracelet, compliments of Revolution & The Rake
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Revolution & The Rake Calibre LF 116.01
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Revolution & The RakeThe 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The RakeRef: LCF004.AC.RN3 The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The Rake Ref: LCF004.AC.RN3Movement: Self-winding FBN 229.01 calibre with natural escapement; unidirectional pawl-fitted micro-rotor; silicon escapement featuring a double direct impulse on the balance; indications: hours and minutes in the centre; small seconds at 6 o’clock; diameter: Ø 31.60 mm (14’’’); thickness: 4.35 mm; frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour); power reserve: 72 hours; gold-toned “microbillé” or shot-blasting finish
Case & dial: Stainless steel; water resistant to 30 m; “ball-shaped” crown in stainless steel; case diameter: 40 mm; case thickness: 10.70 mm; back bezel engraved “Revolution & The Rake” and numbered out of 12; salmon-toned dial with a sunburst finish on the centre and opaline finish behind the minute track; slate grey hour circle, second markers and logo decals; indexes: white gold Breguet appliques ruthenium treated; small seconds display gold-toned opaline at 6 o´clock
Strap: Slate grey calf leather with Alcantara lining; additional steel Milanese bracelet, compliments of Revolution & The Rake
Availability & price: Limited edition of 12 pieces; USD 54,500
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The Rake
Calibre FBN 229.01
The 2021 Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor for Revolution & The Rake