For the most part, pleated trousers are designed to be worn on the waist and are cut
full with a high rise. “The main advantage of wearing pleated trousers is comfort,” Campbell Carey, Head Cutter and
Creative Director of Huntsman, tellsThe Rake. He adds, “They allow extra room from
the front and back of the trouser because the pleats are generally one inch bigger per leg across the seat and
thigh.” The technical benefits of the extra inch depends on the number of pleats on each side, so double-pleated
trousers will provide more room and also allow better use of side pockets. Forward-facing pleats are generally more
traditional, and evoke scenes of British sartorial splendour of formal three-piece suits, however, “both directions
are classic,” according to Modoo. The main difference is that reverse pleats will appear flatter as they won’t cast
a shadow in the front, compared to a forward pleat.
At Edward Sexton, pleats are a
common feature with the best example being their art-deco Hollywood Top trouser. Inspired by styles of the 1930s,
it’s an immensely comfortable trouser that sits high on the body with slightly fuller fit, complemented with deep
double pleats and a drawn-in waist with dropped belt loops. Creative Director Dominic Sebag-Montefiore explains that
“it’s the softness of the construction and gentle drawing in of the waist that gives rise to the casual feel.” This
more than proves that pleated trousers aren't necessarily reserved for formal dress and, further underlined by the
fact that that the ever-stylish Sebag-Montefiore wears them “like tracksuit bottoms” with a T-shirt around the
house. However, they can also “work well for a more sartorial look with checks or pinstripes.” In terms of fabrics,
Carey adds that “pleated trousers work best in heavier cloths with a good drape or robust, high-twist ones that hold
a crease”. Whilst it’s true that heavier cloths are complemented by pleats, in the summer pleated trousers are a
fine choice as they allow “air to circulate around the legs,” says Carey. So, lightweight woolen twills and linens
in pastels and neutral tones work well and are worth consideration if you’re currently thinking of bespeaking a
pair.
Rubinacci’s Manny model is
another great example of a trouser with pleats and they offer many expressions in heavy flannels and lightweight
cottons. In comparison to the Hollywood Top that’s inspired by decadent times, the Manny trouser bears from military
traditions via the Ghurkas, an almost superhuman military cohort. The atypical double forward-facing pleats in this
case are to aid function and movement and the design on the waist is particularly complex, but interesting and
unique. Coming with a cummerbund-style waistband, the trouser is held to the body with two buckles on the hips that
are fed through each side underneath the front section of the waistband. Due to its military connotations, the
Ghurka trouser favours more casual garments, such as simple T-shirts, short sleeve silk shirts and single-breasted
blazers.
Compared to the Hollywood Top and Manny trouser which are of a full fit, Salvatore
Piccolo offer exceptional slim-fitting trousers accompanied with single reverse pleats. The deep
pleat appears flatter, yet nonetheless elegant, and they feature a split waistband back with a four-button concealed
front fastening. As a result, they favour more formal clothing and can be worn easily with a jacket, shirt and tie
with an overcoat thrown on top for good measure. The Rake Atelier currently offers a pleated trouser in light denim,
which is an interesting take on a cloth that has workwear roots.
Men can be put off by pleated trousers due to the folds throwing off balance their
instinctual habit of getting dressed easily and without much thought. But as Carey puts it, “there aren't any hard
or fast rules to wearing pleated trousers,” so when in doubt keep it simple with a complementing cashmere crewneck,
or a T-shirt. If there are brace buttons, use them and channel that inner Gordon Gekko and you’ll look the business.
Having said that, there is one simple rule that perhaps goes without saying: wear them in their correct place, on
the waist.
Simon Crompton wears reverse pleated trousers from Pommella Napoli in vintage Fox Brothers twill, a Harris Tweed coat
from Liverano & Liverano and a simple cashmere rollneck by Drake's. Photo by Jamie Ferguson.
