For the most part, pleated
trousers are designed to be worn on the waist and are cut full with
a high rise. “The main advantage of wearing pleated trousers is
comfort,” Campbell Carey, Head Cutter and Creative Director of
Huntsman, tells
The Rake. He adds, “They allow extra room from the
front and back of the trouser because the pleats are generally one
inch bigger per leg across the seat and thigh.” The technical
benefits of the extra inch depends on the number of pleats on each
side, so double-pleated trousers will provide more room and also
allow better use of side pockets. Forward-facing pleats are
generally more traditional, and evoke scenes of British sartorial
splendour of formal three-piece suits, however, “both directions
are classic,” according to Modoo. The main difference is that
reverse pleats will appear flatter as they won’t cast a shadow in
the front, compared to a forward pleat.
At Edward Sexton, pleats are a
common feature with the best example being their art-deco Hollywood
Top trouser. Inspired by styles of the 1930s, it’s an immensely
comfortable trouser that sits high on the body with slightly fuller
fit, complemented with deep double pleats and a drawn-in waist with
dropped belt loops. Creative Director Dominic Sebag-Montefiore
explains that “it’s the softness of the construction and gentle
drawing in of the waist that gives rise to the casual feel.” This
more than proves that pleated trousers aren't necessarily reserved
for formal dress and, further underlined by the fact that that the
ever-stylish Sebag-Montefiore wears them “like tracksuit bottoms”
with a T-shirt around the house. However, they can also “work well
for a more sartorial look with checks or pinstripes.” In terms of
fabrics, Carey adds that “pleated trousers work best in heavier
cloths with a good drape or robust, high-twist ones that hold a
crease”. Whilst it’s true that heavier cloths are complemented by
pleats, in the summer pleated trousers are a fine choice as they
allow “air to circulate around the legs,” says Carey. So,
lightweight woolen twills and linens in pastels and neutral tones
work well and are worth consideration if you’re currently thinking
of bespeaking a pair.
Rubinacci’s Manny model is another
great example of a trouser with pleats and they offer many
expressions in heavy flannels and lightweight cottons. In
comparison to the Hollywood Top that’s inspired by decadent times,
the Manny trouser bears from military traditions via the Ghurkas,
an almost superhuman military cohort. The atypical double
forward-facing pleats in this case are to aid function and movement
and the design on the waist is particularly complex, but
interesting and unique. Coming with a cummerbund-style waistband,
the trouser is held to the body with two buckles on the hips that
are fed through each side underneath the front section of the
waistband. Due to its military connotations, the Ghurka trouser
favours more casual garments, such as simple T-shirts, short sleeve
silk shirts and single-breasted blazers.
Compared to the Hollywood Top
and Manny trouser which are of a full fit, Salvatore
Piccolo offer exceptional slim-fitting trousers
accompanied with single reverse pleats. The deep pleat appears
flatter, yet nonetheless elegant, and they feature a split
waistband back with a four-button concealed front fastening. As a
result, they favour more formal clothing and can be worn easily
with a jacket, shirt and tie with an overcoat thrown on top for
good measure. The Rake Atelier currently offers a pleated trouser
in light denim, which is an interesting take on a cloth that has
workwear roots.
Men can be put off by pleated
trousers due to the folds throwing off balance their instinctual
habit of getting dressed easily and without much thought. But as
Carey puts it, “there aren't any hard or fast rules to wearing
pleated trousers,” so when in doubt keep it simple with a
complementing cashmere crewneck, or a T-shirt. If there are brace
buttons, use them and channel that inner Gordon Gekko and you’ll
look the business. Having said that, there is one simple rule that
perhaps goes without saying: wear them in their correct place, on
the waist.
Simon Crompton wears reverse pleated trousers from Pommella
Napoli in vintage Fox Brothers twill, a Harris Tweed coat from
Liverano & Liverano and a simple cashmere rollneck by Drake's.
Photo by Jamie Ferguson.
