5 rakish tips from Pitti Uomo 105

One of the standout events of the year, Pitti Uomo 105 did not disappoint. The Rake reports on five unmissable styles for AW24.

5 rakish tips from Pitti Uomo 105

What a Pitti this year. The novelties and the guests really made something of it deeply exciting, as well as the numerous and elegant social occasions (see under 'Brunello Cucinelli dinner', that was particularly memorable) and the fashion shows of Todd Snyder and Magliano that have opened a gateway to the dazzling runways soon to follow in Milan Men's Fashion Week. But, as always, the real spectacle lay in the streets and halls of the Fortezza da Basso, transformed into a canvas where fashion aficionados from around the globe painted their styles in bold strokes.

Here are the best street styles seen at Pitti Uomo FW24, inviting you to step into a world where fashion is both an art and a statement.

The long coat

This season at Pitti Uomo 105, the long coat emerged as a definitive staple for the FW24 collection. These coats varied in style, ranging from sleek, tailored overcoats to more relaxed, flowing trench coats. The materials were just as diverse, featuring rich wools, luxurious cashmere, and innovative water-resistant fabrics. Styling varied among attendees, with some pairing their coats with formal suits and others opting for a more casual look with chunky knitwear and relaxed trousers. The versatility and dramatic impact of the long coat made it a key trendsetter, proving that practical winter wear can also be at the forefront of fashion.

Heritage plaid

Last year we saw an influx of plaid and tartan both on and off the runway, and it seems it’s sticking around. Heritage plaid made a striking appearance at Pitti Uomo 105, showcasing a blend of traditional charm with contemporary fashion. This year, plaid patterns were not just confined to classic tartans; they included a range of innovative designs, mixing various color palettes and line thicknesses to create a modern twist on a timeless style. The versatility of plaid was on full display, with outfits showcasing both monochromatic schemes and bold, contrasting color combinations. The integration of plaid into various types of garments, including trousers, vests, and even hats, demonstrated its adaptability and enduring appeal in men's fashion. 

Brown hues

Pitti made it clear that sartorialists have warmly welcomed brown hues into their wardrobes, and if we were to pick one colour that was more prevalent than others during Pitti, it was brown. Gone are the days when variations of navy and grey dominated tailoring’s horizon, and brown is no longer being eschewed by more urban-appropriate shades. It’s dramatic enough to make an elegant and refined statement, it’s rich in depth and there are some lovely hues available, such as chocolate, terracotta, burnt orange and bronze.

Western influence

For the last few iterations of Pitti Uomo, we’ve seen subtle nods towards American mid-Western style appear here and there. Last week, however, it was everywhere. We saw tassel-fringed jackets, heavy plaid shirts aplenty, frayed, cut-off denim jeans and high-heeled suede boots.

Impeccable details

As usual, attention to detail was paramount at Pitti Uomo 105, with a focus on fine craftsmanship and unique accessories. The fashion-forward crowd showcased a variety of intricate embellishments, from bespoke buttonholes and unique cufflinks to artfully patterned pocket squares and statement timepieces. The trend was not just about the items themselves, but how they were combined to create a harmonious and individual look.