Chanel's Quiet Revolution: Becoming a Powerhouse in Haute Horlogerie

In the rarefied world of luxury timepieces, a fashion icon is steadily transforming into a horological powerhouse. Chanel, long known for its tweed suits and iconic fragrances, has been making strategic moves in the watch industry that are reshaping the landscape of haute horlogerie.

Over the past two and a half decades, Chanel has quietly but consistently acquired stakes in some of the most prestigious and innovative watch manufacturers. This calculated approach has positioned the fashion house as a serious player in the world of high-end watches, challenging traditional perceptions and blurring the lines between fashion and horology.

Chanel's journey into the heart of watchmaking began in 1998 with a 49% stake in Bell & Ross, a brand known for its aviation-inspired timepieces. This initial foray signaled Chanel's intentions to become more than just a fashion watch producer. By aligning with Bell & Ross, Chanel gained valuable insights into the technical aspects of watchmaking and the luxury timepiece market.

In 2011, Chanel continued its strategic expansion by acquiring a minority stake in Romain Gauthier, a respected independent watchmaker known for his exceptional finishing and innovative movements. This move demonstrated Chanel's commitment to haute horlogerie and its recognition of the importance of in-house movement production.

The fashion house's horological ambitions became even clearer in 2018 when it secured a 20% stake in F.P. Journe, one of the most revered names in contemporary watchmaking. François-Paul Journe's creations are celebrated for their technical excellence and unique designs, further elevating Chanel's position in the world of high complications.

Chanel's focus on movement manufacturing was reinforced in 2019 with a 20% investment in Kenissi, a high-end movement maker. This partnership has allowed Chanel to enhance its in-house capabilities and reduce reliance on external suppliers, a crucial factor in the competitive world of luxury watches.

Most recently, this week it was announced that Chanel acquired a 25% stake in MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), a brand synonymous with avant-garde, boundary-pushing timepieces. This latest move cements Chanel's status as a major player in the most creative and innovative sectors of the watch industry.

Through these strategic investments, Chanel has assembled a formidable portfolio that spans various segments of the luxury watch market. From the military-inspired designs of Bell & Ross to the horological art pieces of MB&F, Chanel now has a foothold in diverse areas of expertise. It has been considered and highly strategic. This approach allows Chanel to leverage the specialised knowledge and capabilities of each brand while maintaining its own distinct identity in the watch world. 

As Chanel continues to strengthen its position in the watch industry, it is challenging the traditional divide between fashion brands and established watchmakers. By combining its sense of style with genuine horological credibility. Chanel are notoriously hands off when it comes to its investments, which is exciting for MB&F. Will we see collaborative efforts between Chanel’s classicism and MB&F’s Avant Gard design – I for one hope so. But the impact on the market, particularly the other independent brands is unknown. Time will tell.