The Best Guest Designers Who Have Marked the History of Pitti Uomo
This year, for the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo, MM6 Maison Margiela and 2023 LVMH Prize winner Setchu will be the guest designers presenting their Autumn/Winter 2025 collections. Here’s a look back at the guest designers who have defined the most prestigious menswear fair over the years.

As Florence enters the third day of Pitti Uomo’s 107th edition, the menswear world is abuzz with anticipation. This season, a noticeable reduction in big-brand shows and activations has put the spotlight on emerging voices to revitalise the scene. Leading this charge is LVMH Prize winne Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, this year’s guest designer. Known for his architectural minimalism and cross-cultural ethos, Kuwata embodies the innovative spirit that Pitti Uomo has championed since its inception. Alongside MM6 Maison Margiela, he brings a fresh perspective to a season defined by transition and reinvention.
Yet, Pitti Uomo’s strength lies in its ability to balance forward-thinking design with a reverence for its history. Over the decades, the event has served as a crucible for some of fashion’s most iconic moments, with guest designers who’ve transformed the menswear landscape. Each collection presented here is a reminder of the legacy these visionaries have left behind — and the foundation they’ve laid for the future.
Giorgio Armani – 1979
Giorgio Armani's participation in Pitti Uomo in 1979 marked a pivotal moment in menswear fashion. His introduction of unstructured tailoring redefined elegance and comfort, setting new standards in men's fashion.
Ermenegildo Zegna – 1981
In 1981, Zegna, under the leadership of founder Ermenegildo Zegna’s sons, showcased its craftsmanship at Pitti Uomo. This was a pivotal moment in the brand's global expansion, following the opening of its first Paris boutique.
Vivienne Westwood – 1990
In 1990, Vivienne Westwood brought her avant-garde designs to Pitti Uomo, infusing the event with her unique blend of punk aesthetics and high fashion. Her showcase challenged traditional menswear norms and left a lasting impact on the fashion industry.
Paul Smith – 1993
At the 1993 edition of Pitti Uomo, Paul Smith presented a collection that predated the Mod revival and Brit-pop movements, defining the era with his slimmer-fitting three-button suits and a distinct 1960s flair. The show featured bold details, including pearl button embellishments on the tailoring, inspired by London’s Pearly Kings and Queens, further cementing Smith’s reputation for mixing British tradition with contemporary style.
Donna Karan – 1994
Donna Karan's 1994 presentation at Pitti Uomo showcased her vision of modern menswear, blending practicality with sophisticated design. Her collection resonated with the contemporary man seeking both style and functionality.
Dries Van Noten – 1995
In the 47th edition of Pitti Uomo, Dries Van Noten captivated audiences with his rich textures and global inspirations. His intricate patterns and innovative fabric treatments offered a new vocabulary for menswear, celebrating individuality and craft.
Valentino – 1995
Sharing the stage with Van Noten, Valentino demonstrated the timeless appeal of Italian tailoring. The collection exuded sophistication through its masterful cuts and luxurious fabrics, epitomizing the brand’s legacy of understated glamour.
Gianni Versace – 1997
Versace’s 1997 Pitti Uomo show was a riot of color, sensuality, and exuberance. By injecting opulence and audacity into menswear, Gianni Versace redefined how men could dress boldly without losing sophistication.
Yohji Yamamoto – 2005
The 67th edition of Pitti Uomo saw Yohji Yamamoto bring his avant-garde mastery to Florence. His deconstructed silhouettes and poetic minimalism offered a stark yet mesmerising alternative to traditional tailoring.
Maison Margiela – 2006
Maison Margiela’s enigmatic showcase in 2006 was a study in deconstruction. With its unconventional materials and anonymous approach, the collection redefined craftsmanship as an intellectual pursuit.
JW Anderson – 2017
In 2017, JW Anderson challenged convention with his gender-fluid designs. By blending historical references with bold experimentation, Anderson reminded audiences that menswear is a playground for reinvention.
Y/Project – 2019
Y/Project’s 2019 show at Pitti was an exercise in exaggerated proportions and layered storytelling. Their ability to juxtapose the avant-garde with wearability marked a turning point in contemporary design.
Jil Sander – 2020
The minimalist ethos of Jil Sander took center stage in 2020, highlighting the power of restraint. With precise cuts and a palette of soft neutrals, the collection celebrated quiet luxury.
Wales Bonner – 2022
Wales Bonner’s 2022 collection bridged the past and the future, weaving Afro-Atlantic cultural narratives into refined tailoring. Her thoughtful approach brought depth and diversity to Pitti Uomo, cementing her place as a visionary.